OUR DENTAL PROFESSIONAL CONTRIBUTOR TO THIS COLUMN IS: DR. Ruben H. Chanes, Periodontist (a specialist in gum disease). Doctor Chanes also has a specialty in dental implants.

Periodontal (gum) disease is the leading cause of tooth loss in adults, affecting three out of four individuals sometime in their lives.

Question: Dr. Chanes can you help us define “gum disease”?

Answer: Gum disease begins with Gingivitus: The gums become red, swollen and bleed easily. Often caused by poor oral hygiene, it is reasonably easy to treat by a periodontist and good oral home care. If left untreated it can lead to periodontitus, and with time problem can spread to below the gum line.

The toxins stimulate a chronic inflammatory response in which the body in essence turns on itself, and the tissues and bone that support the teeth are broken down and destroyed. Gums separate from the teeth, forming pockets (spaces between the teeth and gums) that become infected. As the disease progresses, the pockets deepen and more gum tissue and bone are destroyed.

Often, this destructive process has very mild symptoms. However, eventually, teeth can become loose and may require removal.

Q. Aside from poor oral hygiene are there other causes of gum disease?

A. There is a whole list of causes: diabetes, aids, smoking or chewing tobacco, stress habits such as clenching or grinding of teeth, hormone change during pregnancy, some drugs used to treat high blood pressure, steroids, epilepsy drugs and cancer fighting drugs.

Q. Left untreated, what are the consequences of periodontal disease?

A. A buildup of bacterial plaque is the enemy of healthy gums. If it is not removed, it hardens into a rough porous deposit called calculus or “tartar”. Toxins produced by the bacteria destroy supporting tissues around the teeth. Gums pull away from the teeth forming periodontal pockets or “gum pockets”. These pockets fill with more plaque , food, dried cells from the gum, bone and root surface, forming puss. As the disease progresses untreated, the pockets grow deeper. Plaque moves further down the roots of the teeth. Bone that supports the teeth may be permanently damaged . Untreated, the teeth can become loose and eventually lost.

Q. I have heard that gum disease can be contagious, is that true?

A. Recent studies have provided convincing evidence that transmission of periodontal pathogens occurs among spouses and between parents and their children.

Q. Left untreated, can gum diseases lead to other health problems beyond periodontal specific disease?

A. When horse traders buy an animal the first thing they check are the horse’s teeth and gums. This is the best indicator of how healthy the animal is in general. The same is true for the human animal. Research tends to support that periodontal disease may be a risk factor for coronary artery disease and stroke. In pregnant women, the evidence suggest that 18% of low birth weight, among newborns, is caused by gum disease afflicting the mother. In addition, gum disease can affect your social, professional and sex life. Chronic halitosis is probable with gum disease.

Q. How is gum disease diagnosed?

A. The Periodonist will inspect the color and firmness of the gums and test teeth for looseness.

Also, a revision will be made to determine how your teeth fit together when you bite. A measuring instrument called a periodontal probe will be used to measure the depth of pockets between the teeth and gums. An X Ray exam is also important to evaluate the bone supporting teeth.

Q. Can any dentist treat periodontal disease?

A. A dentist who practices general dentistry can certainly diagnose signs of the disease, especially if the disease is advanced . However, Periodontists have extensive advanced training in the treatment of the disease. A minimum of two years of study beyond the DDS degree is required in both U.S. and Mexican dental schools. As a specialist they devote their careers, energy and skills to treating patients with periodontal disease. Periodontics is one of eight specialties recognized by both Mexican an U.S. dental associations.

OUR DENTAL PROFESSIONAL CONTRIBUTOR TO THIS COLUMN IS:  DR. Marco Antonio Sam
DR. SAM IS A GRADUATE OF UNIVERSIDAD NACIONAL AUTONOMA DE MEXICO (UNAM), and  is a licensed dental surgeon and member of the Mexican Dental Association. In addition, he has Diplomats in Restorations Over Implants, (the use of  implants to anchor prosthetic dentures),  and Fixed Prosthetics Occlusion ( the practice of correcting an abnormal defect in the patients “bite”).

This past week, www.Mexicomatters.info interviewed Dr. Sam  about  how best to choose a dentist in Baja and the cost advantages of having implants done in Baja as opposed to the United States.
Question: Dr. Sam, how can a English speaking patient determine who is a qualified dentist in Baja California?
Answer:  First – ask the dentist by e mail, if not in person,  for his or her credentials.  A University degree as a dental surgeon in Mexico is the equivalent of a DDS in the United

States.  Mexican dental schools are of equal quality to those in the U.S. and hold their graduates to equal standards for qualification..
Second – ask to see the dentist’s  membership certification in  the “Associacion de Colegio de Dentistas”. The equivalent of a membership in the American Dental Association. This will provide assurance that the dentist is maintaining his continuing education requirements and is schooled in “state of the art” dental procedures. Not all dentists, whether U.S. or Mexican, adhere to the strict standards of membership in their respective  Dental Associations.

In addition to membership in the dental association, you should inquire about “Diplomados”,  a  certification in the dental specialty addressing your needs.

In the case of Dr. Sam, a specialty in Restorations Over Implants  and correction of abnormal bites.

A third qualifier should be the  ability to communicate in English and  testimonials from  U.S. or English speaking patients .  Do not be embarrassed to ask for references of any professional, regardless of country origin.

Q. Dr. Sam, what are dental implants?
A: A dental implant is an artificial tooth root that a specialist places into your jaw to hold a replacement tooth or bridge.

Q. Are Ensenada dentists as well equipped to handle dental implants as dentists North of the border?

A. Answer: Absolutely, as long as the dentist meets the criteria of board certification, dental association membership and a certified specialty in implantation.   Licensing requirements in Mexico are equal to those in the United States,  as are   continuing education requirements for dental association membership.   Many Mexican dentists, like some U.S. dentists,  are licensed but not board certified.  Nor do they retain membership in the national dental association.  Therefore, they are probably not current in new modalities of treatment and dental material or  instrument innovations.

Q.  What are the advantages of having implants done in Baja as opposed to the United States.
A. First allow me to differentiate between dental procedures done in the interior  of Mexico as opposed to those here at the border.
At the border, dentists interact more with international specialists and innovators because of our proximity to the  United States.  Eighty miles from the U.S. border, we have ready access  to international dental conferences and seminars.  Access  to the latest in dental science is a given among  Ensenada dentists.
In addition,  almost all of the material we use,  as Baja dentists,  are manufactured in the U.S..  Quality of materials: fillers, prosthetics, bonding agents, esthetic enhancement products, etc. is  essential to providing high  quality  dentistry..  The  dental material and instruments used  by dentists in  California Norte are identical to those used in Baja.

Because of border proximity, material, from the U.S. is less expensive  for Baja dentists than Mexican products made by  companies located in the interior.

The most compelling reason for choosing dental implants  or any  dental procedures in  Baja is cost.  Costs for surgery  and general dentistry is  typically 40 to 60% less than in the United States. With any professional,   the qualifier of competence is typically years of experience.  I am proud to say that our implant team has enough experience same like in the U.S. on average.  My associates and I have  20  years of combined experience in providing dental implants for U.S. patients.  We have a long list of happy patients who can testify to having a positive result at about ½ the price of a dentist North of the border.

Q. Why is dental care so much less expensive in Mexico?

A: First we do not have to pay exorbitant mal practice insurance premiums.
Second the cost of rent, salaries for dental assistants,  and other dental practice employees, is a fraction of what is paid to “like” employees  in the states.
Dr. Marco Antonio Sam tel. 1783458, You can find Dr. Sam’s office at the corner of 9th & Gastelum, Ensenada Centro, 2nd floor Plaza Copacabana, look for the Nova Dent sign

Jose Perez is the founder of Mexicomatters, serving the foreign investor since 1984.
You can consult with Jose by calling 619 819 9369 U.S. Phone or 011 52 646 1766759, see our website www.mexicomatters.info
Jose email: leejose@mexicomatters.info

A U.S. citizen, I have been living full time in Mexico since 1985. My primary medical care has been provided by Mexicans: Doctors, dentists, sobador (a type of acupressure), curanderos (descendents of ancient shaman) and homegrown family “nurses”. In almost all Mexican families, one or more of the women act as first aid specialists. Treating minor health problems with a whole host of medicinal herbs to be taken orally or topologically. And injecting family members with medicines and vitamins requiring needle and syringe.

The laws regarding the distribution of medical care creates major differences between our two cultures. In Mexico you do not need a doctor’s prescription to buy most pharmaceuticals or obtain laboratory tests and X Rays. The result is more “self diagnosis and treatment”. For example: If symptoms exist indicating an infection, Mexicans will go directly to a laboratory to confirm the existence of one. If an infection is detected, the patient will most likely go to a pharmacist for the necessary antibiotic. This approach eliminates the need for a doctor visit and the accompanying costs.

If there is an injury to the muscular skeletal system, Mexican patients will most often go to an X Ray lab to determine the extent of the injury before visiting a physician. If it is simple tendonitis or contusions, without fractures or dislocation, home care is the self prescription. Anti –inflammatory medicines and natural products will be the treatment plan. If injections are required, a family “nurse” or neighbor will do the honors. Many of my Mexican friends inject themselves. Again, skipping the doctor.

This approach of bypassing the physician for simple maladies greatly reduces the cost of health care and unnecessary visits to the doctor or emergency room. I have seen no downside risks to this approach. Contraire, I find that Mexicans are taught to be more responsible in selecting treatment alternatives by first determining “what is wrong”. A common, preventive health, measure is taken when a family member is not ill but feeling a malaise – kind of a sub par health condition. A syringe filled with B 12 is purchased at the pharmacy and injected at home. I don’t know whether placebo affect or a real cure, but I have seen positive results among friends and family from this self administered treatment.

Mexican cities are like Chinese communities, herbal stores are everywhere. These natural medicines work and are prescribed by herb specialists, family members, friends, “curanderos” (descendents of shaman) and physicians as well. Mexican physicians and dentists are trained in herbal medicine, unlike their U.S. colleagues, and often prescribe them. In lieu of pharmaceuticals with negative “side affects”.

The first Spaniards arrived in Mexico in 1519. They were amazed that the Aztecs had acquired such a vast knowledge of medicinal plants. Unfortunately, six years before Cabeza de Vaca’s arrival, the Spaniards destroyed the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan. And, in the process, destroyed approximately 3,000 distinct medicinal plants utilized by the natives.
Curanderos (fem. Curanderas) are found throughout Mexico and in some areas of the Southwestern United States. Still practicing shaman traditions dating back thousands of years. The word curandero comes from the word “curar” which means to heal. They are folk healers: On the material level with herbs, amulets and other natural treatments. On the spiritual level using religion, God, saints, prayers and petitions to heal.

Another Mexican healer, found in quantity, are called sobador. In Ensenada there are a dozen I know of. You can see their roadside signs as you drive through neighborhoods. Sobadores use a combination of acupressure, massage, heat and a suction method applied to painful muscle tissue. I have been successfully treated by them for muscle-tendon injuries. They often brought me immediate relief from pain.

In rural areas of Mexico, Curanderos and Sobadores are sometimes the only practitioners for miles. Like all healers, whether physician or witch doctor, there are good ones – bad ones and a few charlatans. However, I find it easier to find a good curandero or sobador as opposed to a good physician. Those who are competent are well known in their communities. Referrals are easy to come by.

So, if you need a physician, a dentist or surgeon, Baja California has the best and at 30% – 50% less cost. If you have a minor ailment, that could be treated by a natural healing alternative, or a health problem traditional medicine cannot treat, we at Mexicomatters want to help in locating a competent healer for your needs. Whether traditional or alternative. And please visit our website for other articles about medical care in Baja.

Manzanilla Restaurant Is On the Move

by Steve Dryden, January 2009

Manzanilla is a popular bistro with local, regional, national and international food and wine lovers. Recently they’ve relocated to the harbor area of Ensenada near the Migration and Harbor Master offices directly across from the boat repair yards on the north side of the port. Due to the fact that there is no sign or street address, I’ll give you exact directions for those coming from Rosarito into downtown Ensenada. As you enter the port area of downtown on Highway One you’ll see the harbor, and as you approach the first stop light you’ll see a sign on the right shoulder that reads: Migration. On the left side of the intersection is a Pemex fuel station. Turn right here, move towards the Migration office on the right side, look for a coffee shop called Cafe Tomas and park nearby. Walk about 200 feet towards the water and look for an arch made of 2×4’s on the right, this is the entrance.

This week I’m joined in my culinary research by two Canadian gourmet chefs, Brad Milne and Beemal Vasani of www.souschef.com. They operate a successful gourmet food outlet in Saskatchewan, pronounced sas KACH uh wahn, one of the Prairie Provinces of Canada, and home to the greatest wheat-growing region in North America. Its farmers produce about half of Canada’s wheat thus gaining the nickname of “Canada’s Breadbasket” ~ in fact ~ the Saskatchewan Wheat Pool is one of the world’s largest marketing cooperatives. Beemal and Brad actually live and work in the city of Saskatoon which has Saskatchewan’s largest population center. Saskatoon is located in Southern Saskatchewan and is surrounded by a rich farming region. Major oil fields were discovered here during the 1950′s bringing sudden change and prosperity to these prairies. Today, Saskatchewan produces about 25 percent of Canada’s petroleum, and is a leading oil producer of North America. Potash mining is a major industry in this province which is used in fertilizers, and has propelled Saskatchewan to one of the world’s leading producers of potash. Adding to their “economic resurrection” has been the recent discovery of high quality diamonds in the region and large amounts of mineral resources that provides almost all of Canada’s uranium. All this activity gives Beemal and Brad an opportunity to market their gourmet produces to an affluent community that appreciates “world class” cuisine, wine and premium food items.

Brad and Beemal are here in Mexico to research and invest in the abundant resources of Baja California Norte. Beemal’s family members have purchased a home in the oceanfront community of Medio Camino and will spend part of each year in our neighborhood. We’ve been touring the gourmet food sector in the region for a few days as well as exploring the wine country and sampling the gourmet cuisine of this region’s culinary wizards. This adventure has led us to Manzanilla Restaurant and into conversation with one of the owners, Javier Martinez. He explains to my Canadian friends that “we focus here on the use of fresh ingredients, local seafood, regional food products, all blended together with creative recipes, and well-suited to compliment our local wine products. We’ve created a casual and relaxed environment that caters to those who love original recipes, artistically prepared, using fresh regional products.” He further tells us that his menu prices range from $5 usd for starters (entradas) to about $27 usd for their amazing Rib Eye Añejo de Sonora. One of their signature dishes is Calamares Manchez, a supreme blend of fresh greens, beets, herbs, spices and tender pieces of local squid. As we explore this culinary wonder, we (gracefully) devour two other entradas ~ Tartara de Pescado and Ostiones Ramonetti. All three of us agreed that the Calamares Manchez is a “stunning delight” with good reviews for the Ostiones Ramonetti which is made from oysters grown in San Quintin and topped with aged cheese from Ramonetti dairy farms in Ojos Negros. Both Canadian chefs said they would improve the Tartara de Pescado with more spice flavors, but Beemal commented that “the Calamares Manchez presentation was sensational, well-balanced with flavors complimenting each other, and the calamari is cooked to perfection.” Although Brad is not a big fan of oysters in general, he commented “that the oysters were fresh tasting and the cheese topping was remarkable.” For those of you who have yet to discover oysters from San Quintin, you should note that they are winning international recognition and awards for their superior quality and taste.

Our international team of culinary explorers continued on with three main entrees: Albondigas de Camaron, Risotto de Mar, and Fedellini de Almeja. Beemal commented “the Albondigas de Camaron presentation was stunning. I liked the fact that the heads were left on the shrimp, as it appeared that the entire shrimp looked more like a small lobster. The shrimp had great flavor.” Brad felt “the shrimp may have been slightly under cooked, but I loved the visual presentation, colors and texture, with the salsa complimented the shrimp very nicely.” All three os us were delighted with the Risotto de Mar. Beemal noted, “it was fantastic, a very nice mix, great use of regional cheese, and perfectly cooked risotto. The Fedellini de Almeja was excellent, but cooled too fast before we could finish the entree. Brad suggested that “maybe the serving dish could be warmed to hold the heat better, or served with clam shells to hold the warmth.” Brad paired his meal with a 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Estacion, Porvenir which he said “paired nicely with all the dishes.” I experimented with two 2006 reds, Xecue Cabernet Sauvignon and Xecue Merlot ~ both good wines that are sold by the glass at Manzanilla.

Manzanilla has a good wine list with over fifteen options by the bottle and three wines offered by the glass. Some wines on their list that caught my attention were, 2005 Roganto Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 Roganto Tempranillo, 2006 Alximia Merlot, 2002 Callave Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend, and 2006 Octubre 3 Carignane.

This charming bistro is still in the process of moving and getting set up in their new location. They are open Wednesdays thru Saturday from lunch through dinner. The bar is a magnificent piece of furniture and adds real class to the dinning room and bar area. Beemal remarked, “I feel this is the first place I’ve walked into that has developed a character and ambiance. You know that a nice meal is coming. I’m a big eater and the portions presented here are perfect.” Brad adds, “they’ve taken a converted space and turned it into a nice venue with good use of available space and with the addition of a brilliant bar.” We ended that afternoon with three wonderful dessert items: Cascade de Chocolate, Creme Brulee and Strawberry Mousse del Dia. Overall we were pleased with the quality of the food, enjoyed superior service and enjoyed the new location. The dessert items were the grand finale for a remarkable culinary adventure, and we were blessed with one week of perfect weather in the 70’s. Beemal and Brad are back in Saskatoon where the temperature is about 40 degrees below zero. I’m wondering if they’re thinking about their new friend and the wonderful port City of Ensenada. I’m guessing these thoughts and memories are now “frozen” into their minds ~ and, we hope to see them soon. I appreciated their global perspective, knowledge of gourmet food and quality wine, generosity, and friendship.

This is the theme for Ensenada’s newest restaurant venue located at the coastal development of Viento in El Sauzal, about seven miles north of town and three miles south of the last toll station in San Miguel on scenic Highway One. If you’re a “boomer” or from the “Cheech and Chong” generation we’re not talking gourmet tobacco (mota) here, we’re speaking about authentic Oaxacan food. And, if you’re looking for a romantic hideaway with an ocean view, filled with charming hospitality, you should visit Oaxacan Restaurante de Viento before “this secret” is discovered.

Laura Soledad Lopez Mendieta and her husband Salvador Moises Fuentes Roldan are from Oaxaca with a goal of introducing their Oaxacan provincial lifestyle, traditions, old customs and family cooking styles at their new seaside food venue. “We’re looking to gain recognition here for Oaxacan regional foods like mole negro and five other moles with traditional use of herbs and chocolate.” In addition, they feature Oaxacan organic coffee, premium mescal and premium wines of Baja California Norte. Artisan cuisine will include, cuichiles stuffed with quesillo (cheese) in tomatillo sauce, chile rellenos stuffed with minilla and chapulines (toasted grasshoppers), empanadas de amarillo (turnover filled with yellow sauce), salsita de gusanos, totopos (oven toasted corn chips), quesillo (string cheese), and chorizo bien frito (well fried spicy sausage).

According to Laura, “we’ll focus on an ever-changing menu of Oaxacan cuisine, with our main goal of offering fine food, using the best products ~ shipped directly from Oaxaca. You’ll experience local seafood based on a fusion between Baja California Norte and Oaxaca without compromising either. In our region black mole is the king of mole, although a lot of people think Oaxacan black mole is like mole from Puebla, it’s not! Ours is still artisan in preparation, smoky and roasted, while Puebla mole is more bitter and commercial.” They feature two chocolate moles, black mole and red mole, coloradito mole and mole verde. “The flavors of Oaxaca are magical and unique because we use hierba santa with a subtle aroma and with a strong palate in most of our local dishes.” Their black beans with aquacate (avocado leaf) marinated in rabbit herb is delicious ~ as is their spicy chicken soup infused with local herbs.

One added feature here at this quaint and cozy locale is the fact that the restaurant can access vino from the wine cellar at Viento. They have one of the biggest selections of Baja California wines at value pricing and offer a minimal $5. corkage fee, if you choose a bottle to compliment your dinner. In addition, they have a nice selection of national beers, mescal, and organic Oaxacan coffee. A full liquor bar will come this summer, just in time to enjoy cocktails on their scenic oceanfront deck overlooking Todos Santos Islands and Ensenada Bay.

Mole is historically popular in Oaxaca, but most historians agree that Mole comes from the state of Puebla and specifically from the Convent of Santa Rosa in Puebla City. There is a lot of misinformation about mole, but most culinary experts agree, there are 6 moles. One thing is certain, all moles are very time consuming, labor intensive and require many ingredients. Mole can be complex and layered in structure with as many as 30 ingredients and 10 different varieties of chiles. Additional ingredients can include: peanuts, almonds, fried bread, plantains, sugar, bittersweet chocolate, cinnamon and cloves. Many Mexican families have their own mole recipes, probably passed down from their mothers via one generation to the next.

Although Oaxaca is famous their mole, a sauce made of chocolate, chili, sesame seed, and spices, it has other culinary wonders to offer the world. Cocido is an amazing stew usually made with beef, pork, chicken, garbanzos, string beans, chayote, squash, cabbage, carrots, “guineo” bananas, often seasoned with cilantro and hierbabuena herb, accompanied by rice and chili sauce. Mole Negro, the most famous of many moles is usually made with turkey. Chiles Rellenos de Sardinas are chilies stuffed with small fish. Tortillas clayudas are large, thick, leathery tortillas and totopos are very large, perforated, toasted tortillas. Dessert items include: alegría which is toasted, popped and sweetened amaranth seeds. Capirotada is a popular dish, especially during Lent, and is a white-bread pudding with various combinations of ingredients, such as cheese, tomato, peanuts, raisins, and biznaga cactus, all covered with syrup. Gaznate are cylindrical sweets filled with meringue and mamón which is a bland, spongy bread of corn starch, egg, sugar, and cinnamon. Of course, you must experience nieves (home made ice creams) like vanilla, rose petal and burnt milk with prickly pear.

A unique Oaxacan beverage is Pozol de Cacao made by grinding boiled corn kernels to form the moist paste called masa, stirring the masa into water, and adding a pinch of salt, sugar, and/or ground cacao. Tejata is made from toasted and ground cacao, seeds of the mamey fruit with a certain local small flower. Chocolate is often stone ground, and served with water or milk, creating a frothy drink that can be drunk hot or cold.

Coffee from Oaxaca comes from mountainous coffee growing regions where indigenous Mixe and Zapotec Indians have grown coffee for over 200 years. In this coffee growing region of Oaxaca there are more than 40 villages spread over 400 square miles. This area hosts about 10,000 coffee-growing families descended from indigenous Indians. Due to low coffee prices worldwide, most of these families will make less than $300.00 (usd) for a year’s work. Thanks to the vision of a dedicated Christian named David Day, the local coffee growers have received organic certification which has increased their yearly income and their quality of life dramatically. According to Day, “it gives the coffee an added dollar value in the global marketplace that we can pass along to the farmers to give them economic sustainability.” Day’s project, Grower’s First, has been able to nearly triple each family’s income to almost $900 per year. In addition, Day and members of his project started a crop diversification program and a beehive program, which increased crop yields six to eight percent. “We integrated honey into their diets instead of raw sugar,” Day says. “We also started a program for the women to hand silk-screen and paint coffee bags to create jobs for those who don’t have farms. We also started a chicken-raising and breeding program for eggs. We buy chickens in bulk and take them up to the mountains. Growers First is about a hand up rather than a handout. We try to give them tools to fish rather than handing them a fish to eat.”

Oaxaca, pronounced wah HAH kah, officially Oaxaca de Juarez, is the capital of Oaxaca, and is a state located in southern Mexico. The region is know for mining, produce farming, forestry, and for creating unique handicrafts. The economy is based on tourism, dairy products, ranching and forestry products. The history of the area is rich in history with the ruins of two ancient Indian cities, Mitla and Monte Alban, located near Oaxaca. The city itself is famous for it’s amazing samples of early architecture, with the origins of the city dating back to about 1486, possibly founded by the Aztecs.

Monte Alban, pronounced MOHN tay ahl BAHN, was the capital and largest city of the empire of the Zapotec Indians. The city once stood on a mountaintop near what is now Oaxaca. Monte Alban means White Mountain in Spanish and also refers to the mountain on which the city’s ruins stand. The Zapotec founded Monte Alban in about 500 B.C. and developed trade links with the city of Teotihuacan and the Maya city of Tikal in present-day Guatemala. The architecture and culture of Monte Alban influenced cultures in other parts of what are now Mexico and Central America. The city had many stone structures, including pyramids with temples on top, palaces, plazas, and tombs. The decline of Teotihuacan contributed to the abandonment of Monte Alban in about A.D. 750. Today, Monte Alban is a major archaeological site and tourist attraction.

For those familiar with the culinary treasures and treats of Oaxaca or for those now ready to explore these delights, please visit this “small wonder of artisan food” next time you pass through El Sauzal. They’re open Wed ~ Sat for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Sundays open for breakfast and lunch.

Happy 2009 from Tres Mujeres Winery

Three Women Winery or Tres Mujeres has become a “super star” operation in the artisan winemaking movement of Baja California Norte. And, it is the artisan winemakers in Mexico that are gaining local, regional, national and international attention from serious wine consumers. When it comes to “the best value for quality wine” ~ these small producers are providing wine lovers with Mexico’s best wines. Handcrafted, artisan wines are becoming the rage and are sought out by wine enthusiasts who are tired of paying premium prices for marginal wines. Fortunately, Tres Mujeres has a diverse variety of crafted wines of superior quality, all for $20 usd. per bottle.

Artisan or handcrafted winemaking has become a global phenomena. As the gourmet food and premium wine movement captures the attention and palates of the world, more and more wine lovers are turning to making handcrafted wines. Several years ago three ambitious and creative women in Valle de Guadalupe decided to enroll in La Escuelita, the local artisan winemaking school in El Porvenir. Escuelita or “little school” is officially named, Union de Productores del Valle de Guadalupe de RL de CV or Estacion de Oficios del Porvenir.

These wine artists, Eva Cotero Altamirano, Ivette Vaillard, and Laura Mac Gregor Garcia, have gone from beginners to “classic artisans” in a matter of just five years. They’ve created a wine cooperative that now includes about eight women with two “token” men, and has gone from a total production of a few barrels of wine per year to about five barrels per artisan. And, the quality of the wines are “remarkable.” According to Ivette, owner of the winery property, “we’ve learned more about the art and science of winemaking due to the structure of our group effort. We learn from each other by sharing information, knowledge and experience among ourselves. In addition, we are working diligently with our vineyards to improve the quality of our grapes. It’s getting harder to find grapes and the prices are soaring, so we’ve increased our vineyard production with a focus on achieving high quality fruit for our wines.” She adds, “in addition, we’ve developed our own label, Tres Mujeres, have purchased new equipment, bought new barrels, built a bigger wine cellar, and constructed a large work area under the guidance of famed architect Pedro Camarena.” The original intimate and cozy wine cellar/winery is now the tasting room.

Ivette prefers to make wine blends with her own grapes and from dry-farmed old vine Grenache that are over thirty years old. Currently she handcrafts 2006 and 2007 vintage wines from Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, and Terrazas and Grenache. She states, “the Cabernet Sauvignon compliments the old vine Grenache well. I craft my wines to be drinkable at a young age, light in body and fruit forward. I listen to what my clients want, and this is what most of them desire in my artisan wine.”

Eva Cotero Altamirano makes an incredible Merlot called Isme. In fact, I’m drinking some right now as I write this article and believe me, it’s a super value for $20 per bottle! Eva states, “I’ve been focusing on experimenting with new types of yeast, using high quality fruit, and am now working with Tempranillo. My main craft and art form is in making 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.” Today, she creates three excellent wines, 100% Tempranillo ~ Besod’eva 2006, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon ~ Ibi, and 100% Merlot ~ Isme. She’s increased her bottle aging to one year with great results, creating superior quality.

Laura Mac Gregor Garcia is getting very serious about her craft. In fact, this year she’s taken classes in Enology and Viticulture from UABC in Ensenada where she’s received her most recent certification. Laura reflects, “The formal training has given me more confidence, a better understanding of chemistry in relationship to winemaking, and a deeper awareness of plant science and vineyard management. One advantage I held in school was that I had already been making wines for a few years and understood the process.” She adds, “I have four acres of land near Laja in Valle de Guadalupe and plan to cultivate vineyards of Tempranillo, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sauvignon Blanc.” You can sample her two premium artisan wines, 100% Tempranillo and 100% Cabernet Sauvignon by visiting the winery. Her wine is excellent and fully reflects her intense focus on creating high quality artisan wine. A steal at $20 usd.

Aime Desponds is one of the two “token men” in the Three Women wine cooperative. He’s been a gourmet chef in Mexico City and southern California for over forty years. He owned the well-known Swiss Chalet restaurant in Zona Rosa de Mexico City and was chef at the renown Nieuport restaurant in Tustin, California. His expertise is creating gourmet Swiss, French and Italian cuisine. He moved to Baja California in 2005, “because my heart was in Mexico.” Aime purchased a property adjoining Three Women winery and Rancho Mogor-Badan where he’s built a cob house, studio, clay ovens and planted a vineyard. Having built a home of clay, under the warm sun of Valle de Guadalupe, he’s designed an appropriate wine label called Sol Y Barro or Sun and Clay. His 2007 blend of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sarah is “stunning” to say the least! This man is a true creative artist in every aspect of his life, wine being no exception. Unfortunately. he’s only made 400 cases in 2007, so it won’t last long. He laments, “next year I plan on making about eight barrels or 800 cases to appease my followers and keep the peace.” Aime is one of those artisan wine and cuisine wizards that should be watched closely by serious wine lovers. His skills in alchemy ~ transforming raw materials into jewels ~ is amazing. Currently his “bottled treasures of delight” can be purchased only at the winery and for a limited period of time due to a small, select production. Most likely his wine is one of the best artisan wines of Mexico for $20 usd.

I’ve known of this cooperative of women and “token” men for several years and it is one of the top choices and “favorite winery experience” for many of the people I have guided through the wine country of Baja California Norte. In the beginning everyone loved the intimacy of the “little wine cellar” and the “country hospitality” of the women. And, that aspect continues, but the wines, yes ~ the wines, are now stealing the show!

Wine Country Review for 2009

The last eight years of blind leadership has “broken the bank” in the United States, but fortunately those same eight years have been used wisely by many dynamic individuals in the wine country of Baja California. In fact, it’s been a “silent revolution” in creating high quality wine throughout Mexico’s emerging wine industry. Even the wine culture has evolved with Ensenada becoming the new “food and wine capital” of Mexico over the last few years. In this seaside port regional gourmet chefs blend their culinary skills with the abundance of fresh seafood, premium quality aged-cheese, artisan olive oil, organic produce, and have the ability to hand select artisan and boutique wines directly from the local wine country to match harmoniously with their culinary wonders. Despite a slowed global economy, Mexico’s wine culture rapidly moves forward and advances in a positive manner.

So much has changed in the last two years that I want to give you an update so you can explore and investigate the Baja California wine country with new information and an open palate. There has been a lot of misinformation and outright propaganda about the wine industry here that needs to come to light. Yesterday’s self-proclaimed “greatest winemakers” have now taken a back seat to the newest wave of creative women and men who are handcrafting some unique wines. Several of the former “top wineries” have slipped back to mid-pack with mediocre quality wines while the lesser known producers are making major progress in creating high quality wine. The problem is with the wine media, international writers who spend a few days in the region and are misguided or misled by their hosts. In reality, wine lovers should let their palates be their guides and discover for yourselves what wines are good for you personally, without relaying on the press, including myself. Believe it or not, there are more than the five wineries we always hear about! In reality, there are now several hundred individuals and creative artisans making good wine in this region. Don’t be fooled by smoke and mirrors, the truth lies in the bottle, and with your personal taste.

Having said that, I’m going to focus in 2009 on smaller and lesser-known winemakers so my readers can explore their options and be their own judges. The best wines are really the ones you love the most, whether it be the easy going white Zinfandel or the noble Nebbiolo. One intriguing movement in the wine industry is the artisan (handcrafted) wine renascence. Mexico has a lack of professionally trained enologists (winemakers) with less than ten holding certified degrees and two with a Ph.d in winemaking, one from Italy and the other from France. Many local winemakers are either self-taught or educated at the “little wine school” (la escuelita) in Valle de Guadalupe and/or at the new wine program at UABC. For those interested in experiencing these wines you can join the artisan winemakers each summer in Valle de Guadalupe at their intimate event called Gueteque, where you’ll have the option to sample wine from over twenty-five new winemakers while enjoying regional cuisine and live music. In the meantime, you can visit several small artisan or boutique operations at Tres Mujeres (Three Women), Casa Vieja, JC Bravo, Vinos Fuentes, Tres Valles Vitivinicola, Rancho Malagon or Viñedos Malagon, Roganto, Norte 32/Oscar Obregon, Vinicola Navegante, Vinart and Viñas Pijoan.

The lodging venues in Valle de Guadalupe have evolved in quality, quantity and affordability as well. Plaza Fatima Hotel is located on Highway 3 near the village of San Antonio de las Minas at Km. 92. This cozy, comfortable and clean hotel is new and provides budget pricing for those folks who would rather spend money on bottles or cases of wine than on high-end lodging. Another new option for more refined accommodations is Hacienda Guadalupe Hotel located in the “heart” of the wine country at Km. 81.5. This twelve room hotel offers scenic balcony views, king-size beds, handcrafted furniture, large pool, jacuzzi, wine bar, cafe, lobby fireplace, with superb hospitality and consistent professionalism. The newest B&B in the valley is also the easiest to get to with a short two hundred yards drive on a dirt road versus one to three miles over rough terrain. The Rancho Malagon or Viñedos Malagon bed and breakfast facility is centered in a courtyard that features a cantina, private kitchen and dinning area with a fireplace. Four deluxe room options are available to meet your specific needs. The suite named “Grenache Suite” features one queen bed, large private bathroom and spacious living room area with sofa. This room also features a private patio looking out into the beautiful private gardens. The “Green Room” includes one queen size bed, private bathroom and balcony with a sitting area offering a majestic view of the mountain range. The “Blue Room” includes two full size beds with one private bathroom and balcony with sitting area featuring a view of the mountain range. Many guests rent the entire complex to host family, friends and clients. For those desiring to lodge in Ensenada, Costa Baja Condo/Hotel is a great option with fantastic harbor and sunset views, pool side wine tasting, wine tour packages, restaurant, bar and spa treatments.

2009 will bring another spectacular season to Mexico’s premium wine producing region. Keep your eyes on the following new stars and let your palates be your guide: Roganto and Tres Valles wineries in Ensenada, and in Guadalupe Valley, Rancho Malagon or Viñedos Malagon, Norte 32 degrees, Viñas Pijoan and Vinisterra. Of course, there are many new and exciting wineries and winemakers joining Mexico’s “silent revolution” in creating high quality wine and as many diverse and unique styles to choose from. Come out to the valley and discover the many “bottled treasures of delight” and enjoy the peace and quiet of the winter season.

During this past Easter Break in San Felipe, hotels were full of Mexican tourists.  However, the traditional Spring Breakers were absent.  Usually Spring Break San Felipe is crazy.  A town full of U.S. University and high school students partying nonstop.  Locals usually left town on Easter Break.  Fear is the reason students and older white folks  are not visiting Baja California and or San Felipe.

Those of us who live in Baja,  Anglo and Mexicano,  find the fear ridiculous and unfounded.  We know we are safer here than anywhere in the U.S. San Felipe is an extraordinary  example of how farfetched the fear is.  It is a quiet and peaceful fishing village of 17,000 locals and a few thousand ex pat retirees.  Almost 150 miles from any border “trouble spot”.  There is one road in and out of town and it has a military revision for folks entering and leaving.  A quitter or safer place does not exist anywhere on the planet .

Robert Reed, a travel editor explains the absurdity of painting all of Mexico with the same broad brush by the U.S. State Department.  “We tend to lump all of Mexico — a country the size of Western Europe — together. For example, a border incident resulted in the death of a Colorado tourist last year, and the Texas Department of Homeland Security recommended against travel to all of Mexico.

Two days before the holiday, the State Department added four Mexican states to its list of areas to avoid.  It now urges U.S. travelers — the bulk of Mexico’s tourist economy — to steer clear of all or parts of 10 Mexican states, including most of the border region and popular vacation sites such as Acapulco and Monterrey.
What’s disconcerting is that these advisories are painting an entire country with a broad brush,” said Terry Denton, president of the Fort Worth, Texas, branch of the Travel Leaders agency. An hour inland from Cancun’s beaches, Yucatan state — home to the most popular Mayan sites and “real Mexican” colonial cities such as Merida and Valladolid — is among the country’s safest. The state, with roughly the same population as Kansas, saw two drug-related deaths in 2010. Wichita, Kansas, alone had six gang-related killings over the same period.

In most of central and southern Mexico, drug violence simply isn’t on the radar of daily life. ‘It’s as easy-going as it’s always been’,  said Deborah Felixson, a diving operator on Cozumel who is ‘shocked’ when people say they had been scared to go to the Caribbean island. “We’re just small communities here. We all know what everyone’s up to.”

In  San Felipe and Baja California in general, the lack of U.S. visitors has severely damaged the tourist industry and devastated the real estate market.  Homes on El Dorado Ranch’s golf course, adjoining the Sea of Cortez, originally sold for a half million dollars.  Additional investment in furniture and landscaping has only added to the losses.  These homes are now reselling in the $90,000.00 dollar range.  If you have cash, the bargains are incredible. The homes are selling for less than half of replacement costs, forget about land value.

It amazes me that most of the luxury vacation/retirement beach homes in Baja now sit vacant.  I wonder why, given the investment, owners don’t question the media and State Department’s fear mongering.  Neither are known for their accuracy in reporting.  Abandoned homes, whether in Las Vegas or Mexico, will be broken into.  Why abandon what were their “dream homes” to vandals and vagrants?  If a squatter is in a home for more than five years, sans contract; Mexican law can grant him legal possession.  I don’t get it!I would have to protect a half million dollar property (with my life) if it were mine.

The Mexico Tourism Board is spending millions of dollars plastering Southland billboards with images of the Great Pyramid of Cholula and underwater trees.  But the  U.S. government has widened  its travel warnings in the last few weeks. Throwing a wrench into Mexico’s effort to attract foreign visitors.  Nearly half of all available rooms in 70 major resort centers have been vacant this year.  In Ensenada the average occupancy rate this year is at 28%.  Forty six percent occupancy is required to “break even”.

Travel bargains are everywhere.   Weekday hotel rooms are renting for seventeen dollars a night.  On our recent trip to San Felipe my daughter and I ate in family run restaurants with outstandingly good food.  We rarely paid more than six dollars for meals.  A weekend vacation for a family of four will cost: Two rooms at $17.00 = $34.00  per night.  A meal for four – $24.00.  Shopping has never been cheaper given the lack of tourists.  Total weekend costs for a family of four – under $400.00.

So what are you waiting for? Get to Baja and show your friends that coming back alive is more probable than coming back alive from Los Angeles.  And, at a fraction of the cost.

t’s not the Tour de France, but over 400,000 cyclists agree: The Rosarito Ensenada Ride is: “A PARTY ON WHEELS!”

Located in the north part of the state of Baja California, the route of wine (sp. Ruta del vino) it enjoys the mediterranean weather, perfect for growing grapevines. There are just a few places in Mexico that combine these unique features: the altitude, seasons, weather, and temperature – without forgetting the love of the art of making wine.

The first colonies on this region where the Kiliwa and Kumiai cultures, followed by missionaries and Mexicans who opened the route to the arrival of immigrants from Russia, Europe and the rest of Mexico. All this influences helped to create a unique characteristic of the route of wine.

Valleys of Calafia, Guadalupe and San Antonio de las Minas are the hearth of the wine route that also extends to the north of Valle de las Palmas (en. Palms valley) and south to the valleys of Santo Tomas and San Vicente Ferrer.

Both wines white and red are made with lots of dedication starting from the grapes Chenin Blanc, Colombard, Souvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, while reds typically uses Cabernet ouvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Genache, Carignan, Barbera, Nebbiolo and Zinfandel.

The wine route offers a wide range of attractions that goes from small familiar wineries to the great scale products. Reasons why you can find from a small familiar camping restaurants to the most fine table, and places for camping, ranch’s, artesian centers, museums, hotels B&B, wine boutiques, art galleries, Indian culture and natural places.

In this region you can enjoy a fun, active, exotic or romantic vacations in an interesting and secure place. The wine route is the perfect destiny for vacations for couples or family.

Ensenada Wine tasting tours

The tour starts with an introduction of Ensenada, why the name of “Ensenada”, the island, the main activities, the Ensenada weather. The main wineries in Ensenada are CETTO, DOMECQ and SANTO TOMAS. The last one was not in this tour.

Casa Pedro Domecq

Our first stop is in Domecq winery (Casa Pedro Domecq) that is located just 10 minutes north of Guadalupe Valley (highway #3). Established in the Guadalupe Valley long time ago, known by their products like Presidente Brandy, which is one of the most sold in the world and now producing wines. From 80’s to date its popularity has been recognized by other mayor wineries in the States, Mexico and other countries for his quality wine.
Back to the tour: The simplicity and sympathy of the Domecq tour guide took us to the wine cellars where the wine reposes in silence. After they closed the door, the dark was around us, but by the time the little clearance of lights lighting our steps was enough for all the tour.
As a Mexican company, they are proud of their roots in Mexico, so it is that Domecq still keeping the old barrels that they used four hundred years ago, they don’t use it anymore but they show it to visitors.

The barrels are the first place where the wine reposes just before they put it in bottles and let it rest for more time. Chatou 2002 is the best reds wines you can taste in this tour, after see the content: Tempranillo and Neviolo wines, make think “that is the wine I want to taste”. 15 minutes underground learning or trying to understand how things work when making wine. The different kind of grapes for wine and the selection of the time they have to let it rest for getting the exact point of mature.

Foreigners are gladly welcome
The Red Hat Divas

The glamour and inhibition: The red hat divas is how they call themselves, that day they were dressing in purple with shining details that make you turn to see them you want it or not. A woman told me that in their club if you’re 50+ old you dress a red hat, if not, you have to dress a pink hat. The important thing here is that every visitor is welcome and the Red Hat Divas where not the exception, they were enjoying the wine tasting and buying little bottles (the tiny ones), may be to be mixed with the coffee next morning.

L.A. Cetto

Founded by an Italian, Angelo Cetto in 1970, history says that Cetto started the wine business since 1930, bought a number of small wineries in the 1980 and now he is responsible for more than half of the country’s wine. Cetto cultivates 2,500 acres of vineyards in Baja California; also own tequila and olive oil.

L.A. Cetto and Domecq are in association producing 65% of the 2.1 million cases of wine that Mexico produces in a year.

The LA CETTO tour: The tour starts on a big terrace made for special events with view to the grape fields and to its bullring. Being in the middle of beauty between nature and technology. With big machinery to process the grapes for all the different kinds of wine (principally german and Italian grapes), the barrels where it repose for several months to get it ready to the bottles where repose until the time that is opened. LA CETTO in Ensenada wine country produces 5.5 millllion liters of wine and 500,000 liters of brandy per year.

If you want to plan a trip to the wine route, call us with the number of persons to give you an estimate cost for the trip. There are other wineries in town available, but Cetto and Domecq are the biggest and are open almost all days.