For six months, Mexicomatters’ newsletter has been dormant.  Devoting my time to finishing my book – “The U.S. and Mexico Joined At The Groin” that will be available December 2011 via Amazon, Barnes & Noble and Kindle.  Also, I have been devoting a lot of time to our tequila distillery in  Autlan, Jalisco, birthplace of Carlos Santana.  Yes, that is correct, your homeboy, LeRoy Jose Amate is now in the tequila business.  Casta Negra is the brand and it will be available November 10, 2011.  The following article is about one of our clients in Las Vegas – the Fleur Restaurant.  Dinner at Fleur was an extraordinary dining experience.  And, since most of my readers travel to Vegas as well as Mexico, I wanted to share this wonderful adventure in eating – provecho.  Don’t forget to order Casta Negra Tequila.

                              Dining does not get any better or surprising!

As a teenage entrepreneur, growing up in the San Francisco Bay Area, I was lucky enough to earn what my father earned while I was still in high school.  This afforded me my favorite hobby at an early age.  Eating in great restaurants.  My high school sweetheart shared my passion for eating “high cuisine”.  Her Italian family were pioneers in San Francisco’s best respected North Beach eateries.  My family immigrated from Spain.  Food and wine were celebrated every day.  Saffron was mailed to us in kilos from my aunt in Spain. How else can a Spaniard truly enjoy his rice?

Both my grandfathers were wine makers and everything we ate or drank was grown in our garden and orchard or produced from our livestock:  Milk and cheese from our goats. Meat from our rabbits, and chickens.  And,  what we did not raise we killed: pigs, venison, squab, duck and pheasant. Great food for me and my girl were a must.  Cultural heritage,  unknown to our Anglo friends . 

While our friends ate hamburgers at the local drive in, we were dining on French, Asian, Latin American, Middle Eastern  and Creole inspired cuisine in San Francisco’s best restaurants. We sought flavors that were distinct  from the  Italian and Spanish foods we were privileged to enjoy at home. 

The most notable cuisine was from our favorite San Francisco restaurant in the 1950’s – Fleur de Lys.  This restaurant is a San Francisco landmark.  Still earning rave reviews as a result of Hubert Keller taking the helm of the “Frisco” institution in 1986.  Fleur de Lys has been ranked as one of the top 40 restaurants in the United States by Gayot restaurant guide, and was awarded a Michelin star in 2006. Fleur de Lys has also been ranked as one of the top 25 restaurants in the United States by Food & Wine magazine.

Keller,  who was born in Alsace, France and graduated from the Ecole Hoteliere in Strasbourg, has worked in restaurants around the world .  His knowledge of other cuisines, aside from French, inspired his latest,  highly acclaimed restaurant – Fleur, in the Mandalay Bay Hotel and Casino, Las Vegas.  Small portions (tapas) are the rule at fleur.  Keller adds his own incredibly creative talent to classic dishes from Spain, Northern Africa, France, Brazil, Italy and Asia.  Unique “out of the box” creations that surprise even the most sophisticated of gourmets.

I was recently treated to an incredible feast at fleur, thanks to General Manager Dave Oseas,  who delighted and surprised us with wonderful menu items.  Two of my favorite ingredients from France – foie gras and shaved truffles assured me I was in for a reborn Fleur de Lys quality supper.  One of the dishes, my companions and I particularly enjoyed,  were the pork ribs glazed with maple syrup.  A high tech kitchen method literally shoots smoke into the ribs and the smoky flavor is captured and released from a custom made serving dish at tableside.  Ribs have never been prepared or presented better. Smoky, juicy and so damn flavorful, my mouth waters thinking about them

If oysters are on the menu – I cannot resist.   Never have I enjoyed, or been as surprised,  by an oyster dish.  Kushi oysters are prepared in a Margarita and orange sorbet sauce,  prepared at the table with liquid nitrogen. Other surprises included the American classic of macaroni and cheese.  But,  not your mommas mac & cheese.  She probably did not add lobster bisque with brunoise vegetable.  An  Argentine classic skirt steak called chimi chui is good enough to cause a Gaucho to move from the pampas to Las Vegas.

For desert I recommend some of the following:  crème brulée trio, cantaloupe martini,

cheesecake lollipops,   or the  chateau soufflé.

The  circular bar, at the entrance to the restaurant, creates  an informal and friendly ambiance that stimulates conversation.   Especially,  since the restaurant stocks the largest selection of absinthe in the Western United States.  Also, frozen cocktails with liquid nitrogen makes the spontaneous bar parties inevitable.  For privacy, cabaña tables surround the main dining room.  Intimate dining for lovers makes the Vegas’,  “what happens-stays in Vegas” a prophecy fulfilled.

“Knock yourself out at fleur”.   A true dining adventure.  A claim made by many restaurants. However, at fleur  it is an incredible understatement.  A gastronomical bargain at $50-65.00 per person.

Call for reservations: Lunch-11am to 3pm

Dinner 5pm to 11pm

Phone 702 632 9400

In 1935 Alfredo Constantin Bernaldez moved from Acapulco to an Ensenada neighborhood, appropriately named Colonia Obrero (worker), a working class neighborhood.  On a double lot, 50 yards deep, he built his home, garden and a small plant for preparing honey, olives and smoked tuna in jars. He sold his products direct to the consumer and to retail stores.  Eventually the family business became a well known and respected sea food cannery.

All five children grew up in the small house that now adjoins the family restaurant. And worked alongside mom and dad in the canning business. Alfredo Constantino was a man of few words.  But his word was his bond and he was respected by everyone who knew him.  Known to everyone as “Tino”, he was also respected for his insistence on providing the highest quality of food products.  He entered the business out of a love for prepared foods not to become wealthy.   I was lucky enough to have Tino for a neighbor before he passed away in 2006.

The seafood canning business began to decline, for small independent operators in the 1980’s, and eventually the plant closed its doors in the late nineties.  Marco Antonio, the second eldest son of “Tino”, began his fascination with food and food preparation at age twelve. Now, in middle age, his dream of having a fine restaurant has been realized.

The restaurant sprawls around the once tuna cannery and family home.  Most of the diners sit outside but there is a small enclosed dining room as well.  Hungry folks line up to be served, like in most taco stands.  But here the taco is taken to new heights: Fresh Crab, Tuna, Salmon, and a Shrimp Chile Relleno to die for. An array of sauces that include Cilantro, chile chipotle, red wine and chile quebrado.  The chipotle sauce has the consistency of a dressing and is one of my favorites.  Don’t be afraid to apply amply, it is only slightly picante. A container of red wine along with the sauces can be an added flavor choice.  It greatly enhances the taste of all tacos but especially the salmon.

The restaurant opened for business in 2005 and was an immediate success.  The restaurant’s fame, like the cannery, is a result of family working together.  And Marco Antonio is a true family man.  “My dream was completed when my son joined me in starting the restaurant”.  Marco Antonio is justifiably proud of his son, a university graduate in gastronomy.  He credits Marco Antonio Junior for advancing the simply prepared food to high cuisine.

The ambiance of the restaurant is also very family and friendly.  Because of the large number of diners, you will most likely share a table with other patrons.  Everyone seems to be smiling and laughing.  With food this good who could be depressed?  Despite the amount of business, service is never compromised.  You will encounter almost no wait.  Worse case, only a few minutes will pass before Marco Antonio, his son and their team are heaping your taco shell with the freshest of seafood; prepared to the high quality standards the Marco Antonio name has stood for since 1935.

Aside from my favorites: salmon, crab and shrimp rellenos or tacos – you can also get a white fish taco but not like most you have eaten.  First the quality and freshness of the fish is never compromised.  Then the flour and ingredients for “breading” the fish is carefully prepared.  And finally, a quick frying method to capture all the flavor without the oily taste that accompanies most fish tacos.  Once you’ve had Marco Antonio’s fish tacos nothing less will satisfy.

Señor Marco is a perfectionist and is there everyday from nine until one making sure his patrons leave happy and content with their experience at Caguatun, the formal name of the restaurant.  Caguatun is a combination of the words caguama (sea turtle) and tuna.  But most folks just know the place as Marco Antonio’s seafood tacos.  Tacos de Caguatun are made from tuna that has been prepard in the same tomato based sauce old timers used to make turtle soup – delicious without the endangered sea turtle.

I am not a big taco enthusiast but these are not typical tacos.  I go there morning and noon time.  If you get there after 1:00 pm, you are out of luck, they close promptly at one.  To guarantee the freshest of ingredients, a limited amount of each dish is prepared daily.  So most days they “run out” of certain dishes before closing.  To find the restaurant go to first street and Rayon (about 4 blocks North of where First Street and Reforma meet).  From first street travel East 3 blocks and you will find it between 3rd and 4th streets, on the North side of Rayon.  My suggestion is to get there around 10:00 am. And tell Marco, the Baja Gourmet sent you.  If you have trouble finding it, call me at (646) 176 6759.

The state of Jalisco Mexico is to Tequilawhat France is to champagne and cognac. Wine and liquor connoisseurs, around the world, have elevated the appreciation and respect of distilled agave to that of vintage wines. And, like champagne, Tequila must be authenticated. Product testing and acceptance must meet a strict set of criteria established by the “Consejo Regulador” (Regulation Counsel/Board). This is a not for profit association of Agave distillers, united in their effort to protect product quality and the name Tequila. The “Consejo Regulador” is like the bar association for lawyers; your right to license is always subject to review.

In the past year, dozens of new tequila brands have entered the world’s market place as interest in tequila grows. They all met the strict demands of: cooking agave, distilling, testing and bottling within board standards of quality. On a recent trip to Jalisco, I met and talked with “artisan” agave distillers who have wonderful product. But, lack the forty or fifty thousand dollars to improve plant infrastructure in order to pass the “Consejos” standards. These are serious people, proud of what they produce and hoping to reach an international market. But knowing, they won’t be fully accepted, without a ticket on the bottle that says “TEQUILA”.

These artisan distillers don’t seem resentful of the “Consejo”, on the contrary. They embrace the assistance given by the “Tequila Board”: Obtaining loans (business plans), training and consulting in marketing and administration. And, running interference with bureaucrats. The government of Mexico is also keenly aware of the potential market for tequila. They are eager to help with loans and technical assistance in growing and distilling agave.

On a recent trip to Tequilaland, I accompanied a client wanting to distribute an artisan 100% distilled agave. He believes it is superior to tequilas presently selling for more than $50.00 dollars a bottle in the United States. The product is called Casta Negra and the plant is located in an agricultural village called Mentidero (Liars Village). In the state of Jalisco, two hours Northeast of Manzanillo, Colima. On the Pacific Coast, 200 km. South of Puerto Vallarta.

Casta Negra , is owned by the Cisneros family. It is a truly family run business. For five generations they have farmed this beautiful valley, rich in water and fertile soil. The setting is surrounded by pine and oak tree covered 8000 ft. mountains. It is traversed by rivers, and, an active volcano dominates the skyline, emitting a steady plume of smoke. The climate is ideal, with a year round temperature of 85 degrees.

The name “Casta Negra”, on the bottle’s label, is above the image of a black Miura fighting bull. The word “casta” in Spanish refers to being of pure blood. When using “casta” to refer to an animal, the example of a purebred bull is appropriate. When referring to a human being “casta” takes on a meaning of “strong character”, brave and confident. An appropriate logo representation of the family and its liquor.

Four brothers work diligently while their father remains the ever present patriarch at the distillery each day. These are truly noble and unassuming folks, unsophisticated in the world of international business. But, what they lack in entrepreneurial experience, they make up for in hard work, common sense and a willingness to learn and adapt. I found them to be extraordinarily flexible in their negotiations with us. They demonstrated a genuine desire to create and maintain a win- win business relationship.

My work does not get any better than it did on this trip to “Mentidero” (liar’s village). I knew a great story would emerge from the origins of the town’s name. The elder Cisneros explained: In the 18th century Mentidero was on the major travel route for agricultural commerce making it’s way to: Manzanillo, Guadalajara, Mexico City and the state of Colima. There, a Hacienda was built called “Hacienda Guadalupe”. Whose principal objective was sugarcane production.

Overnight travelers and cowboys were also welcomed at the Hacienda. This was a common practice for Haciendas throughout Mexico in those times. And, in the evening after dinner, the hired hands would regale their guests with tall tales. Therefore, it became the “Hacienda de Los Mentirosos”, the Hacienda of liars. It was also quite common that these Hacienda’s grew into villages and townships. “Hacienda de Los Mentirosos” was no exception. It grew into a township and the name Mentidero (liars village) stuck.

One of the things, I like most about my work, is traveling to unfamiliar parts of Mexico. And traveling, not as a tourist, but as a businessman. Meeting new colleagues, who love their land and their work. Eager to show you the best it has to offer: Local foods and drink, nature, history and their family’s connection to it all. Mexicans are much more attached to their land than we are as yanks.

It is rare to find two generations of Americans living in the same city, let alone, five generations. We see real estate as a commodity as opposed to a heritage. The Cisneros family told me by phone, before traveling to meet them, that I would love their village. lifestyle and rancho. Their pride is justified, I am anxious to return.

I suggest you visit tequila country, especially Mentidero and the Cisneros family distillery. They will share the best swimming locations on the river and places to eat Chacales (craw dads). Also, visit the neighboring county seat , Autlan. It is a clean, picturesque colonial city with proud and hospitable people.

Work is plentiful in these hustling – bustling agricultural communities. And I saw no apparent signs of poverty – everyone seems to have work. Not many areas of the Americas can boast full unemployment in these times of crisis, but Agave country can. Travel costs are inexpensive. The best hotels are under $500 pesos ($45.00.dlrs.). Decent hotels can be found at $25.00 per night and great meals at $10.00 dlrs., including cocktails, beer or wine. Most of the better restaurants feature sea food and a local river crustacean called Chacales. They are the biggest crawdads I have ever seen. And the locals definitely know the best ways to prepare, the almost lobster size beauties. I ate them at different locations with a variety of wonderful sauces.

I would suggest you combine a trip to the southernmost region of Tequila country with the beautiful beaches of Barra Navidad and Melaque. Less developed than Manzanillo, where Bo Derek made her famous jog on the beach in the movie “10”. Barra and Melaque are just a 30 minute drive from the Manzanillo airport. Despite a large population of Canadian snow birds, these small fishing villages have maintained their Mexican pueblo charm. Friendly natives, wonderful seafood, Chacales, beautiful beaches, great snorkeling, fishing and surfing in warm waters. Combine the best the Pacific Ocean has to offer with nearby trips into Agave country and her surrounding 8000 ft. mountain peaks. Flights on Alaska Airlines – LAX to Manzanillo at $350.00 round trip. With the peso at $13 per dollar, any Mexican holiday is a great bargain.

An Ensenada Seafood Institution since 1978

I consider myself a connoisseur of fine wine and food. My parents immigrated to Northern California from Spain. The art of making wine, cheese, sausage and bread at home led me on the organic food path I continue to follow. Only accepting the best of food preparation and ingredients. I was blessed. Almost everything we ate we raised, shot or fished: fresh vegetables and herbs from our garden, fruits from our orchard, rabbit and chicken from our pens. Game birds and venison we hunted.

My favorite foods came from the Pacific Ocean or the San Juaquin and Sacramento rivers. The Oakland estuary provided clams, Tomales Bay (North of San Fran.) oysters, and of course Dungeness crab in abundance in the 1950’s San Francisco Bay. Cat fish and bass we caught in local rivers and lakes.

Preferring fresh seafood to red meat is one of the reasons I moved to Ensenada. Ensenada is a sea food lover’s paradise. And as “Ensenadenses”(sp.) we all cherish a seafood institution called Halioti’s restaurant, established in 1976. Halioti is the Greek word for abalone and unfortunately it has become more scarce than finding a fan of George W. Bush. If you have never eaten abalone, you are not alone. But I suggest you try it before the good lord takes you to another place. Heaven might not serve the best of what the earth’s oceans has to offer. You can still enjoy abalone at Halioti’s. It is expensive but worth it.

Rafael Colunga, the co-owner of Halioti’s with his son and wife, is truly a man of the sea. He grew up on the island of Cedros, off the Northern coast of Baja California. Rafael spent his youth as a diver for Abalone, Conch and Lobster. His mother, Maria Del Pilar Jordan, had a seafood restaurant on the island. Rafael grew up, not only harvesting the best the sea had to offer, but also learning the best way to select and prepare the ocean’s gifts.

Whether you choose Oysters or Pismo clams from San Quintin (as good as they get), white fish, shrimp, calamari or scallops, Rafael insists on the freshest and highest quality possible. His love of the sea’s treasures extends to the restaurant’s décor. I have been a customer for 26 years, but still marvel at the 20 huge stained glassed windows that depict scenes from the sea. Miguel Angel Borguez is the celebrated stained glass craftsman who created these remarkable works of art. Like an aquatic museum you will find a large collection of sea shells and ancient diving equipment that all make the ambience appropriate to the love of all the ocean has to offer.

Halioti’s has three large dining rooms and a full bar. I particularly enjoy taking clients to this restaurant. Aside from the great food and service, I can always find a large table in a secluded area of the restaurant. The ambience is serene and private. The waiters are very professional and most of them have a long history with Halioti’s. My favorite waiter, Jose Alfredo Quintero has been at the restaurant 25 years. And everyone is greeted warmly at the door by the Colunga family.

Simple and organic food preparation is the focus at Halioti’s. No fancy sauces to masquerade mediocre ingredients. Soup or salad is included with all entres and I can heartily recommend the wonderful seafood broth or clam chowder. Salad dressings and a great tartar sauce are also made in house.

At Halioti’s, full intent is on preserving the fresh taste and quality of the best our Pacific has to offer. That is the essence of why Halioti’s continues a robust restaurant business in a time of crisis. Ensenadans demand the best of seafood and that is what Halioti’s serves up.

A full bar and complete list of fine Baja California wines will complement your choice of great seafood.

ENSENADA’S NEWEST SUSHI RESTAURANT

In my opinion the best sushi in Ensenada

I have been addicted to Japanese sushi since 1977.  While living in Chicago, the capital for fine dining in the United States.  I have eaten sushi in Mexico City  and the “Little Tokyo’s” of New York, Los Angeles. San Francisco and most major cities in North America,.

When I moved to Ensenada in 1985, there was a less than mediocre sushi restaurant aboard the ferry Catalina.  A tourist attraction moored in Ensenada Bay (Bahia de Todos Santos).  The old ferry  that once transported passengers to Catalina was converted into shops and restaurants. Ensenada’s version of The Queen Mary, moored in Long Beach California’s harbor.

Since 1985, a series of other mediocre sushi restaurants have opened in Ensenada and eventually closed.  In 2006 sushi chef Cesar Dario Cruz, began working in a “decent sushi alternative” in downtown Ensenada.  Now, Cesar has opened his own restaurant.

I can truly testify that Nigeri de Autor ranks with the best sushi restaurants North of the border.  Located on Zertuche Blvd.,  in the neighborhood of Valle Dorado it opened for business in June of this year (2009).

Why is Nigeri superior to the approximate eight other sushi restaurants in Ensenada? Because Cesar combines 15years of restaurant experience and training with a passion for creating unique and delicious Japanese cuisine.

Before Cesar came to Ensenada,  I traveled to Tijuana for, the only palatable sushi restaurant in Baja California, at that time. It is   called Komasa.

Cesar loves to surprise sushi aficionados with his inventive creations.  He recently surprised me with a small crab served in it’s shell and topped with cheese that Cesar melts with a blow torch. If you are a lover of crab, this dish will definitely please your pallet.

Cesar did not learn his craft overnight,  like most of the “Johnny come lately” chefs in Ensenaada.  After his apprenticeship, of four years at Komasa, Cesar began, working as a qualified sushi chef.  Not satisfied with being “just a chef”, he created a sushi making school as well.  Over 100 students have studied under Cesar.

Aside from sushi,  the menu at Nigeri offers a wide selection of kitchen prepared dishes.  Including,  a variety of meat, seafood and vegetarian entrées.  I particularly enjoy the duck in a mandarin sauce or the swordfish marinated in a Jamaica (hibiscus flower water) and orange juice blend.  Classic Tepanyakis and Teriyakis are prepared with salmon shrimp, fillets of chicken or beef.

After 15 years as a professional,  Cesar has finally realized his  dream of  owning a successful  restaurant.  And it has been a success from the very first day it opened.  Clients, like myself, eagerly awaited the opening.

Cesar listens to his customers.  Prior to opening Nigori he saw requests for Uni (sea urchin), tobico (flying fish eggs), caviar and quail eggs ignored by his former employers.  I know, because I made the requests.  All of these traditional,  sushi favorites of mine are available at Nigeri and nowhere else in Ensenada.

Cesar solicits feedback about his food and service.  What  his customers want is what he provides. The whole team at Nigeri is to be saluted. A hardworking team doing their best to satisfy customer needs.

You can find Nigeri from the trans peninsula hwy.. Traveling from the South,  past Costco then move to right hand lane and turn right at the University- across from the Calimax. Proceed East toward the hills and at the sports stadium the road curves to the left – Zertuche Blvd. continue North to 284, Zertuche Blvd. (left hand side of Z blvd.)

Traveling South turn left after the Smart & Final – Blvd. Lago Victoria.  Proceed to Zertuche Blvd. (stop sign), turn right to #284, on the corner, right side of street (across from a gym.)

Tel. 1766107 nextel 152*15*13326

Manzanilla Restaurant Is On the Move

by Steve Dryden, January 2009

Manzanilla is a popular bistro with local, regional, national and international food and wine lovers. Recently they’ve relocated to the harbor area of Ensenada near the Migration and Harbor Master offices directly across from the boat repair yards on the north side of the port. Due to the fact that there is no sign or street address, I’ll give you exact directions for those coming from Rosarito into downtown Ensenada. As you enter the port area of downtown on Highway One you’ll see the harbor, and as you approach the first stop light you’ll see a sign on the right shoulder that reads: Migration. On the left side of the intersection is a Pemex fuel station. Turn right here, move towards the Migration office on the right side, look for a coffee shop called Cafe Tomas and park nearby. Walk about 200 feet towards the water and look for an arch made of 2×4’s on the right, this is the entrance.

This week I’m joined in my culinary research by two Canadian gourmet chefs, Brad Milne and Beemal Vasani of www.souschef.com. They operate a successful gourmet food outlet in Saskatchewan, pronounced sas KACH uh wahn, one of the Prairie Provinces of Canada, and home to the greatest wheat-growing region in North America. Its farmers produce about half of Canada’s wheat thus gaining the nickname of “Canada’s Breadbasket” ~ in fact ~ the Saskatchewan Wheat Pool is one of the world’s largest marketing cooperatives. Beemal and Brad actually live and work in the city of Saskatoon which has Saskatchewan’s largest population center. Saskatoon is located in Southern Saskatchewan and is surrounded by a rich farming region. Major oil fields were discovered here during the 1950′s bringing sudden change and prosperity to these prairies. Today, Saskatchewan produces about 25 percent of Canada’s petroleum, and is a leading oil producer of North America. Potash mining is a major industry in this province which is used in fertilizers, and has propelled Saskatchewan to one of the world’s leading producers of potash. Adding to their “economic resurrection” has been the recent discovery of high quality diamonds in the region and large amounts of mineral resources that provides almost all of Canada’s uranium. All this activity gives Beemal and Brad an opportunity to market their gourmet produces to an affluent community that appreciates “world class” cuisine, wine and premium food items.

Brad and Beemal are here in Mexico to research and invest in the abundant resources of Baja California Norte. Beemal’s family members have purchased a home in the oceanfront community of Medio Camino and will spend part of each year in our neighborhood. We’ve been touring the gourmet food sector in the region for a few days as well as exploring the wine country and sampling the gourmet cuisine of this region’s culinary wizards. This adventure has led us to Manzanilla Restaurant and into conversation with one of the owners, Javier Martinez. He explains to my Canadian friends that “we focus here on the use of fresh ingredients, local seafood, regional food products, all blended together with creative recipes, and well-suited to compliment our local wine products. We’ve created a casual and relaxed environment that caters to those who love original recipes, artistically prepared, using fresh regional products.” He further tells us that his menu prices range from $5 usd for starters (entradas) to about $27 usd for their amazing Rib Eye Añejo de Sonora. One of their signature dishes is Calamares Manchez, a supreme blend of fresh greens, beets, herbs, spices and tender pieces of local squid. As we explore this culinary wonder, we (gracefully) devour two other entradas ~ Tartara de Pescado and Ostiones Ramonetti. All three of us agreed that the Calamares Manchez is a “stunning delight” with good reviews for the Ostiones Ramonetti which is made from oysters grown in San Quintin and topped with aged cheese from Ramonetti dairy farms in Ojos Negros. Both Canadian chefs said they would improve the Tartara de Pescado with more spice flavors, but Beemal commented that “the Calamares Manchez presentation was sensational, well-balanced with flavors complimenting each other, and the calamari is cooked to perfection.” Although Brad is not a big fan of oysters in general, he commented “that the oysters were fresh tasting and the cheese topping was remarkable.” For those of you who have yet to discover oysters from San Quintin, you should note that they are winning international recognition and awards for their superior quality and taste.

Our international team of culinary explorers continued on with three main entrees: Albondigas de Camaron, Risotto de Mar, and Fedellini de Almeja. Beemal commented “the Albondigas de Camaron presentation was stunning. I liked the fact that the heads were left on the shrimp, as it appeared that the entire shrimp looked more like a small lobster. The shrimp had great flavor.” Brad felt “the shrimp may have been slightly under cooked, but I loved the visual presentation, colors and texture, with the salsa complimented the shrimp very nicely.” All three os us were delighted with the Risotto de Mar. Beemal noted, “it was fantastic, a very nice mix, great use of regional cheese, and perfectly cooked risotto. The Fedellini de Almeja was excellent, but cooled too fast before we could finish the entree. Brad suggested that “maybe the serving dish could be warmed to hold the heat better, or served with clam shells to hold the warmth.” Brad paired his meal with a 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Estacion, Porvenir which he said “paired nicely with all the dishes.” I experimented with two 2006 reds, Xecue Cabernet Sauvignon and Xecue Merlot ~ both good wines that are sold by the glass at Manzanilla.

Manzanilla has a good wine list with over fifteen options by the bottle and three wines offered by the glass. Some wines on their list that caught my attention were, 2005 Roganto Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 Roganto Tempranillo, 2006 Alximia Merlot, 2002 Callave Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend, and 2006 Octubre 3 Carignane.

This charming bistro is still in the process of moving and getting set up in their new location. They are open Wednesdays thru Saturday from lunch through dinner. The bar is a magnificent piece of furniture and adds real class to the dinning room and bar area. Beemal remarked, “I feel this is the first place I’ve walked into that has developed a character and ambiance. You know that a nice meal is coming. I’m a big eater and the portions presented here are perfect.” Brad adds, “they’ve taken a converted space and turned it into a nice venue with good use of available space and with the addition of a brilliant bar.” We ended that afternoon with three wonderful dessert items: Cascade de Chocolate, Creme Brulee and Strawberry Mousse del Dia. Overall we were pleased with the quality of the food, enjoyed superior service and enjoyed the new location. The dessert items were the grand finale for a remarkable culinary adventure, and we were blessed with one week of perfect weather in the 70’s. Beemal and Brad are back in Saskatoon where the temperature is about 40 degrees below zero. I’m wondering if they’re thinking about their new friend and the wonderful port City of Ensenada. I’m guessing these thoughts and memories are now “frozen” into their minds ~ and, we hope to see them soon. I appreciated their global perspective, knowledge of gourmet food and quality wine, generosity, and friendship.

This is the theme for Ensenada’s newest restaurant venue located at the coastal development of Viento in El Sauzal, about seven miles north of town and three miles south of the last toll station in San Miguel on scenic Highway One. If you’re a “boomer” or from the “Cheech and Chong” generation we’re not talking gourmet tobacco (mota) here, we’re speaking about authentic Oaxacan food. And, if you’re looking for a romantic hideaway with an ocean view, filled with charming hospitality, you should visit Oaxacan Restaurante de Viento before “this secret” is discovered.

Laura Soledad Lopez Mendieta and her husband Salvador Moises Fuentes Roldan are from Oaxaca with a goal of introducing their Oaxacan provincial lifestyle, traditions, old customs and family cooking styles at their new seaside food venue. “We’re looking to gain recognition here for Oaxacan regional foods like mole negro and five other moles with traditional use of herbs and chocolate.” In addition, they feature Oaxacan organic coffee, premium mescal and premium wines of Baja California Norte. Artisan cuisine will include, cuichiles stuffed with quesillo (cheese) in tomatillo sauce, chile rellenos stuffed with minilla and chapulines (toasted grasshoppers), empanadas de amarillo (turnover filled with yellow sauce), salsita de gusanos, totopos (oven toasted corn chips), quesillo (string cheese), and chorizo bien frito (well fried spicy sausage).

According to Laura, “we’ll focus on an ever-changing menu of Oaxacan cuisine, with our main goal of offering fine food, using the best products ~ shipped directly from Oaxaca. You’ll experience local seafood based on a fusion between Baja California Norte and Oaxaca without compromising either. In our region black mole is the king of mole, although a lot of people think Oaxacan black mole is like mole from Puebla, it’s not! Ours is still artisan in preparation, smoky and roasted, while Puebla mole is more bitter and commercial.” They feature two chocolate moles, black mole and red mole, coloradito mole and mole verde. “The flavors of Oaxaca are magical and unique because we use hierba santa with a subtle aroma and with a strong palate in most of our local dishes.” Their black beans with aquacate (avocado leaf) marinated in rabbit herb is delicious ~ as is their spicy chicken soup infused with local herbs.

One added feature here at this quaint and cozy locale is the fact that the restaurant can access vino from the wine cellar at Viento. They have one of the biggest selections of Baja California wines at value pricing and offer a minimal $5. corkage fee, if you choose a bottle to compliment your dinner. In addition, they have a nice selection of national beers, mescal, and organic Oaxacan coffee. A full liquor bar will come this summer, just in time to enjoy cocktails on their scenic oceanfront deck overlooking Todos Santos Islands and Ensenada Bay.

Mole is historically popular in Oaxaca, but most historians agree that Mole comes from the state of Puebla and specifically from the Convent of Santa Rosa in Puebla City. There is a lot of misinformation about mole, but most culinary experts agree, there are 6 moles. One thing is certain, all moles are very time consuming, labor intensive and require many ingredients. Mole can be complex and layered in structure with as many as 30 ingredients and 10 different varieties of chiles. Additional ingredients can include: peanuts, almonds, fried bread, plantains, sugar, bittersweet chocolate, cinnamon and cloves. Many Mexican families have their own mole recipes, probably passed down from their mothers via one generation to the next.

Although Oaxaca is famous their mole, a sauce made of chocolate, chili, sesame seed, and spices, it has other culinary wonders to offer the world. Cocido is an amazing stew usually made with beef, pork, chicken, garbanzos, string beans, chayote, squash, cabbage, carrots, “guineo” bananas, often seasoned with cilantro and hierbabuena herb, accompanied by rice and chili sauce. Mole Negro, the most famous of many moles is usually made with turkey. Chiles Rellenos de Sardinas are chilies stuffed with small fish. Tortillas clayudas are large, thick, leathery tortillas and totopos are very large, perforated, toasted tortillas. Dessert items include: alegría which is toasted, popped and sweetened amaranth seeds. Capirotada is a popular dish, especially during Lent, and is a white-bread pudding with various combinations of ingredients, such as cheese, tomato, peanuts, raisins, and biznaga cactus, all covered with syrup. Gaznate are cylindrical sweets filled with meringue and mamón which is a bland, spongy bread of corn starch, egg, sugar, and cinnamon. Of course, you must experience nieves (home made ice creams) like vanilla, rose petal and burnt milk with prickly pear.

A unique Oaxacan beverage is Pozol de Cacao made by grinding boiled corn kernels to form the moist paste called masa, stirring the masa into water, and adding a pinch of salt, sugar, and/or ground cacao. Tejata is made from toasted and ground cacao, seeds of the mamey fruit with a certain local small flower. Chocolate is often stone ground, and served with water or milk, creating a frothy drink that can be drunk hot or cold.

Coffee from Oaxaca comes from mountainous coffee growing regions where indigenous Mixe and Zapotec Indians have grown coffee for over 200 years. In this coffee growing region of Oaxaca there are more than 40 villages spread over 400 square miles. This area hosts about 10,000 coffee-growing families descended from indigenous Indians. Due to low coffee prices worldwide, most of these families will make less than $300.00 (usd) for a year’s work. Thanks to the vision of a dedicated Christian named David Day, the local coffee growers have received organic certification which has increased their yearly income and their quality of life dramatically. According to Day, “it gives the coffee an added dollar value in the global marketplace that we can pass along to the farmers to give them economic sustainability.” Day’s project, Grower’s First, has been able to nearly triple each family’s income to almost $900 per year. In addition, Day and members of his project started a crop diversification program and a beehive program, which increased crop yields six to eight percent. “We integrated honey into their diets instead of raw sugar,” Day says. “We also started a program for the women to hand silk-screen and paint coffee bags to create jobs for those who don’t have farms. We also started a chicken-raising and breeding program for eggs. We buy chickens in bulk and take them up to the mountains. Growers First is about a hand up rather than a handout. We try to give them tools to fish rather than handing them a fish to eat.”

Oaxaca, pronounced wah HAH kah, officially Oaxaca de Juarez, is the capital of Oaxaca, and is a state located in southern Mexico. The region is know for mining, produce farming, forestry, and for creating unique handicrafts. The economy is based on tourism, dairy products, ranching and forestry products. The history of the area is rich in history with the ruins of two ancient Indian cities, Mitla and Monte Alban, located near Oaxaca. The city itself is famous for it’s amazing samples of early architecture, with the origins of the city dating back to about 1486, possibly founded by the Aztecs.

Monte Alban, pronounced MOHN tay ahl BAHN, was the capital and largest city of the empire of the Zapotec Indians. The city once stood on a mountaintop near what is now Oaxaca. Monte Alban means White Mountain in Spanish and also refers to the mountain on which the city’s ruins stand. The Zapotec founded Monte Alban in about 500 B.C. and developed trade links with the city of Teotihuacan and the Maya city of Tikal in present-day Guatemala. The architecture and culture of Monte Alban influenced cultures in other parts of what are now Mexico and Central America. The city had many stone structures, including pyramids with temples on top, palaces, plazas, and tombs. The decline of Teotihuacan contributed to the abandonment of Monte Alban in about A.D. 750. Today, Monte Alban is a major archaeological site and tourist attraction.

For those familiar with the culinary treasures and treats of Oaxaca or for those now ready to explore these delights, please visit this “small wonder of artisan food” next time you pass through El Sauzal. They’re open Wed ~ Sat for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Sundays open for breakfast and lunch.

Happy 2009 from Tres Mujeres Winery

Three Women Winery or Tres Mujeres has become a “super star” operation in the artisan winemaking movement of Baja California Norte. And, it is the artisan winemakers in Mexico that are gaining local, regional, national and international attention from serious wine consumers. When it comes to “the best value for quality wine” ~ these small producers are providing wine lovers with Mexico’s best wines. Handcrafted, artisan wines are becoming the rage and are sought out by wine enthusiasts who are tired of paying premium prices for marginal wines. Fortunately, Tres Mujeres has a diverse variety of crafted wines of superior quality, all for $20 usd. per bottle.

Artisan or handcrafted winemaking has become a global phenomena. As the gourmet food and premium wine movement captures the attention and palates of the world, more and more wine lovers are turning to making handcrafted wines. Several years ago three ambitious and creative women in Valle de Guadalupe decided to enroll in La Escuelita, the local artisan winemaking school in El Porvenir. Escuelita or “little school” is officially named, Union de Productores del Valle de Guadalupe de RL de CV or Estacion de Oficios del Porvenir.

These wine artists, Eva Cotero Altamirano, Ivette Vaillard, and Laura Mac Gregor Garcia, have gone from beginners to “classic artisans” in a matter of just five years. They’ve created a wine cooperative that now includes about eight women with two “token” men, and has gone from a total production of a few barrels of wine per year to about five barrels per artisan. And, the quality of the wines are “remarkable.” According to Ivette, owner of the winery property, “we’ve learned more about the art and science of winemaking due to the structure of our group effort. We learn from each other by sharing information, knowledge and experience among ourselves. In addition, we are working diligently with our vineyards to improve the quality of our grapes. It’s getting harder to find grapes and the prices are soaring, so we’ve increased our vineyard production with a focus on achieving high quality fruit for our wines.” She adds, “in addition, we’ve developed our own label, Tres Mujeres, have purchased new equipment, bought new barrels, built a bigger wine cellar, and constructed a large work area under the guidance of famed architect Pedro Camarena.” The original intimate and cozy wine cellar/winery is now the tasting room.

Ivette prefers to make wine blends with her own grapes and from dry-farmed old vine Grenache that are over thirty years old. Currently she handcrafts 2006 and 2007 vintage wines from Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, and Terrazas and Grenache. She states, “the Cabernet Sauvignon compliments the old vine Grenache well. I craft my wines to be drinkable at a young age, light in body and fruit forward. I listen to what my clients want, and this is what most of them desire in my artisan wine.”

Eva Cotero Altamirano makes an incredible Merlot called Isme. In fact, I’m drinking some right now as I write this article and believe me, it’s a super value for $20 per bottle! Eva states, “I’ve been focusing on experimenting with new types of yeast, using high quality fruit, and am now working with Tempranillo. My main craft and art form is in making 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.” Today, she creates three excellent wines, 100% Tempranillo ~ Besod’eva 2006, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon ~ Ibi, and 100% Merlot ~ Isme. She’s increased her bottle aging to one year with great results, creating superior quality.

Laura Mac Gregor Garcia is getting very serious about her craft. In fact, this year she’s taken classes in Enology and Viticulture from UABC in Ensenada where she’s received her most recent certification. Laura reflects, “The formal training has given me more confidence, a better understanding of chemistry in relationship to winemaking, and a deeper awareness of plant science and vineyard management. One advantage I held in school was that I had already been making wines for a few years and understood the process.” She adds, “I have four acres of land near Laja in Valle de Guadalupe and plan to cultivate vineyards of Tempranillo, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sauvignon Blanc.” You can sample her two premium artisan wines, 100% Tempranillo and 100% Cabernet Sauvignon by visiting the winery. Her wine is excellent and fully reflects her intense focus on creating high quality artisan wine. A steal at $20 usd.

Aime Desponds is one of the two “token men” in the Three Women wine cooperative. He’s been a gourmet chef in Mexico City and southern California for over forty years. He owned the well-known Swiss Chalet restaurant in Zona Rosa de Mexico City and was chef at the renown Nieuport restaurant in Tustin, California. His expertise is creating gourmet Swiss, French and Italian cuisine. He moved to Baja California in 2005, “because my heart was in Mexico.” Aime purchased a property adjoining Three Women winery and Rancho Mogor-Badan where he’s built a cob house, studio, clay ovens and planted a vineyard. Having built a home of clay, under the warm sun of Valle de Guadalupe, he’s designed an appropriate wine label called Sol Y Barro or Sun and Clay. His 2007 blend of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sarah is “stunning” to say the least! This man is a true creative artist in every aspect of his life, wine being no exception. Unfortunately. he’s only made 400 cases in 2007, so it won’t last long. He laments, “next year I plan on making about eight barrels or 800 cases to appease my followers and keep the peace.” Aime is one of those artisan wine and cuisine wizards that should be watched closely by serious wine lovers. His skills in alchemy ~ transforming raw materials into jewels ~ is amazing. Currently his “bottled treasures of delight” can be purchased only at the winery and for a limited period of time due to a small, select production. Most likely his wine is one of the best artisan wines of Mexico for $20 usd.

I’ve known of this cooperative of women and “token” men for several years and it is one of the top choices and “favorite winery experience” for many of the people I have guided through the wine country of Baja California Norte. In the beginning everyone loved the intimacy of the “little wine cellar” and the “country hospitality” of the women. And, that aspect continues, but the wines, yes ~ the wines, are now stealing the show!

Wine Country Review for 2009

The last eight years of blind leadership has “broken the bank” in the United States, but fortunately those same eight years have been used wisely by many dynamic individuals in the wine country of Baja California. In fact, it’s been a “silent revolution” in creating high quality wine throughout Mexico’s emerging wine industry. Even the wine culture has evolved with Ensenada becoming the new “food and wine capital” of Mexico over the last few years. In this seaside port regional gourmet chefs blend their culinary skills with the abundance of fresh seafood, premium quality aged-cheese, artisan olive oil, organic produce, and have the ability to hand select artisan and boutique wines directly from the local wine country to match harmoniously with their culinary wonders. Despite a slowed global economy, Mexico’s wine culture rapidly moves forward and advances in a positive manner.

So much has changed in the last two years that I want to give you an update so you can explore and investigate the Baja California wine country with new information and an open palate. There has been a lot of misinformation and outright propaganda about the wine industry here that needs to come to light. Yesterday’s self-proclaimed “greatest winemakers” have now taken a back seat to the newest wave of creative women and men who are handcrafting some unique wines. Several of the former “top wineries” have slipped back to mid-pack with mediocre quality wines while the lesser known producers are making major progress in creating high quality wine. The problem is with the wine media, international writers who spend a few days in the region and are misguided or misled by their hosts. In reality, wine lovers should let their palates be their guides and discover for yourselves what wines are good for you personally, without relaying on the press, including myself. Believe it or not, there are more than the five wineries we always hear about! In reality, there are now several hundred individuals and creative artisans making good wine in this region. Don’t be fooled by smoke and mirrors, the truth lies in the bottle, and with your personal taste.

Having said that, I’m going to focus in 2009 on smaller and lesser-known winemakers so my readers can explore their options and be their own judges. The best wines are really the ones you love the most, whether it be the easy going white Zinfandel or the noble Nebbiolo. One intriguing movement in the wine industry is the artisan (handcrafted) wine renascence. Mexico has a lack of professionally trained enologists (winemakers) with less than ten holding certified degrees and two with a Ph.d in winemaking, one from Italy and the other from France. Many local winemakers are either self-taught or educated at the “little wine school” (la escuelita) in Valle de Guadalupe and/or at the new wine program at UABC. For those interested in experiencing these wines you can join the artisan winemakers each summer in Valle de Guadalupe at their intimate event called Gueteque, where you’ll have the option to sample wine from over twenty-five new winemakers while enjoying regional cuisine and live music. In the meantime, you can visit several small artisan or boutique operations at Tres Mujeres (Three Women), Casa Vieja, JC Bravo, Vinos Fuentes, Tres Valles Vitivinicola, Rancho Malagon or Viñedos Malagon, Roganto, Norte 32/Oscar Obregon, Vinicola Navegante, Vinart and Viñas Pijoan.

The lodging venues in Valle de Guadalupe have evolved in quality, quantity and affordability as well. Plaza Fatima Hotel is located on Highway 3 near the village of San Antonio de las Minas at Km. 92. This cozy, comfortable and clean hotel is new and provides budget pricing for those folks who would rather spend money on bottles or cases of wine than on high-end lodging. Another new option for more refined accommodations is Hacienda Guadalupe Hotel located in the “heart” of the wine country at Km. 81.5. This twelve room hotel offers scenic balcony views, king-size beds, handcrafted furniture, large pool, jacuzzi, wine bar, cafe, lobby fireplace, with superb hospitality and consistent professionalism. The newest B&B in the valley is also the easiest to get to with a short two hundred yards drive on a dirt road versus one to three miles over rough terrain. The Rancho Malagon or Viñedos Malagon bed and breakfast facility is centered in a courtyard that features a cantina, private kitchen and dinning area with a fireplace. Four deluxe room options are available to meet your specific needs. The suite named “Grenache Suite” features one queen bed, large private bathroom and spacious living room area with sofa. This room also features a private patio looking out into the beautiful private gardens. The “Green Room” includes one queen size bed, private bathroom and balcony with a sitting area offering a majestic view of the mountain range. The “Blue Room” includes two full size beds with one private bathroom and balcony with sitting area featuring a view of the mountain range. Many guests rent the entire complex to host family, friends and clients. For those desiring to lodge in Ensenada, Costa Baja Condo/Hotel is a great option with fantastic harbor and sunset views, pool side wine tasting, wine tour packages, restaurant, bar and spa treatments.

2009 will bring another spectacular season to Mexico’s premium wine producing region. Keep your eyes on the following new stars and let your palates be your guide: Roganto and Tres Valles wineries in Ensenada, and in Guadalupe Valley, Rancho Malagon or Viñedos Malagon, Norte 32 degrees, Viñas Pijoan and Vinisterra. Of course, there are many new and exciting wineries and winemakers joining Mexico’s “silent revolution” in creating high quality wine and as many diverse and unique styles to choose from. Come out to the valley and discover the many “bottled treasures of delight” and enjoy the peace and quiet of the winter season.