In comparing public transportation between the United States and Mexico, the third world-first world dichotomy is thrown on its ear.  For example, bus transportation in the U.S. is expensive and routes are ridiculously limited. Consequently, bus travel in the U.S. is time consuming and inconvenient.  Mexico’s buses, on long routes, make no stops.  Getting you there almost as fast as driving yourself. 

Mexico’s buses on long routes are luxuriously appointed with seats that allow you to lean back and comfortably sleep.  These luxury vehicles have toilets on board and en route movies.  The last bus trip I took from Autlan Jalisco to Guadalajara (4 hours), they served us soft drinks and you could hear the movie on bose like headphones.  Not those uncomfortable, in the ear, headphones.  The cost for this 150 mile trip was eighteen dollars.  Much cheaper than the gas I would consume in my automobile 

My most frequent bus trips are from my home in Ensenada, Baja California to the border crossing into San Diego County.  From my home to the bus terminal I can take a micro bus, ten to twenty passengers. The cost is less than a dollar.  And,  these micro buses come by every five minutes or so.  I have never waited more than ten minutes.  There are also “taxis de ruta”.  Cabs that pick up passengers traveling the same route and are also less than a dollar.   What an amazing concept.  Instead of passengers who don’t know each other sharing a cab-the cabbies do it for you.   I usually take a “radio cab” that picks me up at my home and delivers me to the bus station for $5.50.  The same cab ride (eight miles)  in the states would cost $15 – $20.00.

Greyhound buses are expensive and uncomfortable.  My Mexican bus ride to the border is in luxury: reclining seats, toilet and a movie during the two hour trip.  I could make it in one hour and a half hours in my automobile but would spend $60.00 for  gas and $15.00 in highway tolls.  My round trip bus ticket is $22.00, but with a senior discount card, the cost is $12.00.  Can’t beat it.  Often, I just go to Tijuana on business,  without crossing the border.  It is cheaper for me to take the bus and then cabs to whatever destinations  in Tijuana.  I don’t have to fight the traffic and have never spent more than ten dollars for a day of cab rides.  And, I avoid getting lost.  Something I’m proficient at.

If I continue my trip into downtown San Diego or the airport, I can walk across the border in half the  time it takes to cross in an automobile.  Actually, I cross without waiting in line when I show the credential I carry indicating I have bi lateral titanium hips.   Upon crossing the border, I board the very efficient San Diego trolley.  I can ride the trolley to the train station for $1.25 (senior fare) and the shuttle to the airport arrives every ten minutes.  On occasion I must travel to Los Angeles on business.  The Amtrak from San Diego and return is $55.00 for seniors.

The reasons for public transportation being so convenient and inexpensive in Mexico is because there are fewer restrictions on folks operating a micro bus or taxi, especially a “taxi de ruta”.   And, Permits, insurance, maintenance are much less expensive in Mexico when compared to the United States.   In Mexico public transportation is efficient, comfortable, convenient and inexpensive – First World.  In the U.S., public transportation is uncomfortable, expensive and inconvenient – Third World by my criteria.  So if you fear driving into Mexico.  Do what hip ex patriots do: take buses and taxis

Also, I want to put a plug in for Volaris Airlines with routes throughout Mexico.  If you book a couple months in advance you can get incredible deals.  My wife and I are flying to Puerta Vallarta and back to Tijuana for $80.00 each round trip.  Volaris has great service, free alcoholic beverages and friendly attendants.  Flights to most major Mexican cities from Tijuana and now the San Francisco bay area and Chicago.

The state of Jalisco Mexico is to Tequila what France is to champagne and cognac. Wine and liquor connoisseurs, around the world, have elevated the appreciation and respect of distilled agave to that of vintage wines. And, like champagne, Tequila must be authenticated. Product testing and acceptance must meet a strict set of criteria established by the “Consejo Regulador” (Regulation Counsel/Board). This is a not for profit association of Agave distillers, united in their effort to protect product quality and the name Tequila. The “Consejo Regulador” is like the bar association for lawyers; your right to license is always subject to review.

In the past year, dozens of new tequila brands have entered the world’s market place as interest in tequila grows. They all met the strict demands of: cooking agave, distilling, testing and bottling within board standards of quality. On a recent trip to Jalisco, I met and talked with “artisan” agave distillers who have wonderful product. But, lack the forty or fifty thousand dollars to improve plant infrastructure in order to pass the “Consejos” standards. These are serious people, proud of what they produce and hoping to reach an international market. But knowing, they won’t be fully accepted, without a ticket on the bottle that says “TEQUILA”.

These artisan distillers don’t seem resentful of the “Consejo”, on the contrary. They embrace the assistance given by the “Tequila Board”: Obtaining loans (business plans), training and consulting in marketing and administration. And, running interference with bureaucrats. The government of Mexico is also keenly aware of the potential market for tequila. They are eager to help with loans and technical assistance in growing and distilling agave.

On a recent trip to Tequilaland, I accompanied a client wanting to distribute an artisan 100% distilled agave. He believes it is superior to tequilas presently selling for more than $50.00 dollars a bottle in the United States. The product is called Casta Negra and the plant is located in an agricultural village called Mentidero (Liars Village). In the state of Jalisco, two hours Northeast of Manzanillo, Colima. On the Pacific Coast, 200 km. South of Puerto Vallarta.

Casta Negra , is owned by the Cisneros family. It is a truly family run business. For five generations they have farmed this beautiful valley, rich in water and fertile soil. The setting is surrounded by pine and oak tree covered 8000 ft. mountains. It is traversed by rivers, and, an active volcano dominates the skyline, emitting a steady plume of smoke. The climate is ideal, with a year round temperature of 85 degrees.

The name “Casta Negra”, on the bottle’s label, is above the image of a black Miura fighting bull. The word “casta” in Spanish refers to being of pure blood. When using “casta” to refer to an animal, the example of a purebred bull is appropriate. When referring to a human being “casta” takes on a meaning of “strong character”, brave and confident. An appropriate logo representation of the family and its liquor.

Four brothers work diligently while their father remains the ever present patriarch at the distillery each day. These are truly noble and unassuming folks, unsophisticated in the world of international business. But, what they lack in entrepreneurial experience, they make up for in hard work, common sense and a willingness to learn and adapt. I found them to be extraordinarily flexible in their negotiations with us. They demonstrated a genuine desire to create and maintain a win- win business relationship.

My work does not get any better than it did on this trip to “Mentidero” (liar’s village). I knew a great story would emerge from the origins of the town’s name. The elder Cisneros explained: In the 18th century Mentidero was on the major travel route for agricultural commerce making it’s way to: Manzanillo, Guadalajara, Mexico City and the state of Colima. There, a Hacienda was built called “Hacienda Guadalupe”. Whose principal objective was sugarcane production.

Overnight travelers and cowboys were also welcomed at the Hacienda. This was a common practice for Haciendas throughout Mexico in those times. And, in the evening after dinner, the hired hands would regale their guests with tall tales. Therefore, it became the “Hacienda de Los Mentirosos”, the Hacienda of liars. It was also quite common that these Hacienda’s grew into villages and townships. “Hacienda de Los Mentirosos” was no exception. It grew into a township and the name Mentidero (liars village) stuck.

One of the things, I like most about my work, is traveling to unfamiliar parts of Mexico. And traveling, not as a tourist, but as a businessman. Meeting new colleagues, who love their land and their work. Eager to show you the best it has to offer: Local foods and drink, nature, history and their family’s connection to it all. Mexicans are much more attached to their land than we are as yanks.

It is rare to find two generations of Americans living in the same city, let alone, five generations. We see real estate as a commodity as opposed to a heritage. The Cisneros family told me by phone, before traveling to meet them, that I would love their village. lifestyle and rancho. Their pride is justified, I am anxious to return.

I suggest you visit tequila country, especially Mentidero and the Cisneros family distillery. They will share the best swimming locations on the river and places to eat Chacales (craw dads). Also, visit the neighboring county seat , Autlan. It is a clean, picturesque colonial city with proud and hospitable people.

Work is plentiful in these hustling – bustling agricultural communities. And I saw no apparent signs of poverty – everyone seems to have work. Not many areas of the Americas can boast full unemployment in these times of crisis, but Agave country can. Travel costs are inexpensive. The best hotels are under $500 pesos ($45.00.dlrs.). Decent hotels can be found at $25.00 per night and great meals at $10.00 dlrs., including cocktails, beer or wine. Most of the better restaurants feature sea food and a local river crustacean called Chacales. They are the biggest crawdads I have ever seen. And the locals definitely know the best ways to prepare, the almost lobster size beauties. I ate them at different locations with a variety of wonderful sauces.

I would suggest you combine a trip to the southernmost region of Tequila country with the beautiful beaches of Barra Navidad and Melaque. Less developed than Manzanillo, where Bo Derek made her famous jog on the beach in the movie “10”. Barra and Melaque are just a 30 minute drive from the Manzanillo airport. Despite a large population of Canadian snow birds, these small fishing villages have maintained their Mexican pueblo charm. Friendly natives, wonderful seafood, Chacales, beautiful beaches, great snorkeling, fishing and surfing in warm waters. Combine the best the Pacific Ocean has to offer with nearby trips into Agave country and her surrounding 8000 ft. mountain peaks. Flights on Alaska Airlines – LAX to Manzanillo at $350.00 round trip. With the peso at $13 per dollar, any Mexican holiday is a great bargain.

During this past Easter Break in San Felipe, hotels were full of Mexican tourists.  However, the traditional Spring Breakers were absent.  Usually Spring Break San Felipe is crazy.  A town full of U.S. University and high school students partying nonstop.  Locals usually left town on Easter Break.  Fear is the reason students and older white folks  are not visiting Baja California and or San Felipe.

Those of us who live in Baja,  Anglo and Mexicano,  find the fear ridiculous and unfounded.  We know we are safer here than anywhere in the U.S. San Felipe is an extraordinary  example of how farfetched the fear is.  It is a quiet and peaceful fishing village of 17,000 locals and a few thousand ex pat retirees.  Almost 150 miles from any border “trouble spot”.  There is one road in and out of town and it has a military revision for folks entering and leaving.  A quitter or safer place does not exist anywhere on the planet .

Robert Reed, a travel editor explains the absurdity of painting all of Mexico with the same broad brush by the U.S. State Department.  “We tend to lump all of Mexico — a country the size of Western Europe — together. For example, a border incident resulted in the death of a Colorado tourist last year, and the Texas Department of Homeland Security recommended against travel to all of Mexico.

Two days before the holiday, the State Department added four Mexican states to its list of areas to avoid.  It now urges U.S. travelers — the bulk of Mexico’s tourist economy — to steer clear of all or parts of 10 Mexican states, including most of the border region and popular vacation sites such as Acapulco and Monterrey.
What’s disconcerting is that these advisories are painting an entire country with a broad brush,” said Terry Denton, president of the Fort Worth, Texas, branch of the Travel Leaders agency. An hour inland from Cancun’s beaches, Yucatan state — home to the most popular Mayan sites and “real Mexican” colonial cities such as Merida and Valladolid — is among the country’s safest. The state, with roughly the same population as Kansas, saw two drug-related deaths in 2010. Wichita, Kansas, alone had six gang-related killings over the same period.

In most of central and southern Mexico, drug violence simply isn’t on the radar of daily life. ‘It’s as easy-going as it’s always been’,  said Deborah Felixson, a diving operator on Cozumel who is ‘shocked’ when people say they had been scared to go to the Caribbean island. “We’re just small communities here. We all know what everyone’s up to.”

In  San Felipe and Baja California in general, the lack of U.S. visitors has severely damaged the tourist industry and devastated the real estate market.  Homes on El Dorado Ranch’s golf course, adjoining the Sea of Cortez, originally sold for a half million dollars.  Additional investment in furniture and landscaping has only added to the losses.  These homes are now reselling in the $90,000.00 dollar range.  If you have cash, the bargains are incredible. The homes are selling for less than half of replacement costs, forget about land value.

It amazes me that most of the luxury vacation/retirement beach homes in Baja now sit vacant.  I wonder why, given the investment, owners don’t question the media and State Department’s fear mongering.  Neither are known for their accuracy in reporting.  Abandoned homes, whether in Las Vegas or Mexico, will be broken into.  Why abandon what were their “dream homes” to vandals and vagrants?  If a squatter is in a home for more than five years, sans contract; Mexican law can grant him legal possession.  I don’t get it!I would have to protect a half million dollar property (with my life) if it were mine.

The Mexico Tourism Board is spending millions of dollars plastering Southland billboards with images of the Great Pyramid of Cholula and underwater trees.  But the  U.S. government has widened  its travel warnings in the last few weeks. Throwing a wrench into Mexico’s effort to attract foreign visitors.  Nearly half of all available rooms in 70 major resort centers have been vacant this year.  In Ensenada the average occupancy rate this year is at 28%.  Forty six percent occupancy is required to “break even”.

Travel bargains are everywhere.   Weekday hotel rooms are renting for seventeen dollars a night.  On our recent trip to San Felipe my daughter and I ate in family run restaurants with outstandingly good food.  We rarely paid more than six dollars for meals.  A weekend vacation for a family of four will cost: Two rooms at $17.00 = $34.00  per night.  A meal for four – $24.00.  Shopping has never been cheaper given the lack of tourists.  Total weekend costs for a family of four – under $400.00.

So what are you waiting for? Get to Baja and show your friends that coming back alive is more probable than coming back alive from Los Angeles.  And, at a fraction of the cost.

t’s not the Tour de France, but over 400,000 cyclists agree: The Rosarito Ensenada Ride is: “A PARTY ON WHEELS!”

Located in the north part of the state of Baja California, the route of wine (sp. Ruta del vino) it enjoys the mediterranean weather, perfect for growing grapevines. There are just a few places in Mexico that combine these unique features: the altitude, seasons, weather, and temperature – without forgetting the love of the art of making wine.

The first colonies on this region where the Kiliwa and Kumiai cultures, followed by missionaries and Mexicans who opened the route to the arrival of immigrants from Russia, Europe and the rest of Mexico. All this influences helped to create a unique characteristic of the route of wine.

Valleys of Calafia, Guadalupe and San Antonio de las Minas are the hearth of the wine route that also extends to the north of Valle de las Palmas (en. Palms valley) and south to the valleys of Santo Tomas and San Vicente Ferrer.

Both wines white and red are made with lots of dedication starting from the grapes Chenin Blanc, Colombard, Souvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, while reds typically uses Cabernet ouvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Genache, Carignan, Barbera, Nebbiolo and Zinfandel.

The wine route offers a wide range of attractions that goes from small familiar wineries to the great scale products. Reasons why you can find from a small familiar camping restaurants to the most fine table, and places for camping, ranch’s, artesian centers, museums, hotels B&B, wine boutiques, art galleries, Indian culture and natural places.

In this region you can enjoy a fun, active, exotic or romantic vacations in an interesting and secure place. The wine route is the perfect destiny for vacations for couples or family.

Ensenada Wine tasting tours

The tour starts with an introduction of Ensenada, why the name of “Ensenada”, the island, the main activities, the Ensenada weather. The main wineries in Ensenada are CETTO, DOMECQ and SANTO TOMAS. The last one was not in this tour.

Casa Pedro Domecq

Our first stop is in Domecq winery (Casa Pedro Domecq) that is located just 10 minutes north of Guadalupe Valley (highway #3). Established in the Guadalupe Valley long time ago, known by their products like Presidente Brandy, which is one of the most sold in the world and now producing wines. From 80’s to date its popularity has been recognized by other mayor wineries in the States, Mexico and other countries for his quality wine.
Back to the tour: The simplicity and sympathy of the Domecq tour guide took us to the wine cellars where the wine reposes in silence. After they closed the door, the dark was around us, but by the time the little clearance of lights lighting our steps was enough for all the tour.
As a Mexican company, they are proud of their roots in Mexico, so it is that Domecq still keeping the old barrels that they used four hundred years ago, they don’t use it anymore but they show it to visitors.

The barrels are the first place where the wine reposes just before they put it in bottles and let it rest for more time. Chatou 2002 is the best reds wines you can taste in this tour, after see the content: Tempranillo and Neviolo wines, make think “that is the wine I want to taste”. 15 minutes underground learning or trying to understand how things work when making wine. The different kind of grapes for wine and the selection of the time they have to let it rest for getting the exact point of mature.

Foreigners are gladly welcome
The Red Hat Divas

The glamour and inhibition: The red hat divas is how they call themselves, that day they were dressing in purple with shining details that make you turn to see them you want it or not. A woman told me that in their club if you’re 50+ old you dress a red hat, if not, you have to dress a pink hat. The important thing here is that every visitor is welcome and the Red Hat Divas where not the exception, they were enjoying the wine tasting and buying little bottles (the tiny ones), may be to be mixed with the coffee next morning.

L.A. Cetto

Founded by an Italian, Angelo Cetto in 1970, history says that Cetto started the wine business since 1930, bought a number of small wineries in the 1980 and now he is responsible for more than half of the country’s wine. Cetto cultivates 2,500 acres of vineyards in Baja California; also own tequila and olive oil.

L.A. Cetto and Domecq are in association producing 65% of the 2.1 million cases of wine that Mexico produces in a year.

The LA CETTO tour: The tour starts on a big terrace made for special events with view to the grape fields and to its bullring. Being in the middle of beauty between nature and technology. With big machinery to process the grapes for all the different kinds of wine (principally german and Italian grapes), the barrels where it repose for several months to get it ready to the bottles where repose until the time that is opened. LA CETTO in Ensenada wine country produces 5.5 millllion liters of wine and 500,000 liters of brandy per year.

If you want to plan a trip to the wine route, call us with the number of persons to give you an estimate cost for the trip. There are other wineries in town available, but Cetto and Domecq are the biggest and are open almost all days.

Making a difference in San Felipe

Pat Butler is the owner and operator of El Dorado Ranch in San Felipe. A huge subdivision of over 300,000 acres adjoining the Sea of Cortez, seven miles north of the village of San Felipe. This is clearly the most successful real estate story in Baja California. El Dorado ranch has 5000 U.S./Canadian lot owners and thousands of homes have been completed by Butler & company.

A new section of the san felipe ranch is currently in development that includes 500 beach and ocean view homes, a 250 room hotel and a couple of golf courses. Mr. Butler’s company also purchased two additional hotels in town for a total of another 200 rooms. These rooms are very much needed to house the over 200 prospective buyers who came every weekend to buy property at El Dorado Ranch.

A soft spoken man, who carefully chooses his words, he is typically attired in western vest and jeans. His halting speech pattern and informal dress creates an illusion of a laid back, country boy. The truth is Pat is a sophisticated and highly competitive, former pro football player turned businessman. A hard driving entrepreneur who earned an M.B.A. from Loyola and led what was perhaps the first management buyout of a Fortune 500 company in U.S. corporate history.

I looked up entrepreneur in the dictionary and, just as I suspected, there was Pat’s picture. At age 24 he bought his first company, a food distribution business in Puerto Rico. He took that business from bankruptcy to success in five years and sold it at a handsome profit.

Pat, like so many successful folks, is driven by dreams and the desire to contribute. Money is only a way of keeping score and the engine that drives the dream. In 20 years of living in Baja I have watched the majority of Baja developers, both U.S. and Mexicanos, fail. Given the poor success rate, I asked Pat why he was willing to give up a comfortable career in the states for the high risk of doing a huge real estate venture in San Felipe Mexico . His response was he knew of no other place in the United States where he could make such a major difference to a community.

San Felipe is a fishing village of 17,000 people. El Dorado Ranch employs over 600 folks, making it the town’s largest employer. The ranch provides millions of dollars in contracts to local product -service providers. Pat provided the funds to establish the not for profit internet café, operated by volunteer gringo retirees. The café maintains the official San Felipe website and provides free computer literacy instruction for students and adults. Pat’s philanthropic efforts, along with the “Amigas of San Felipe”, have resulted in 225 scholarships a year to worthy San Felipe students.

I personally, have been the recipient of Pat’s generosity. For five years I struggled to maintain a radio program called Mexico Today. At the height of our success we had 33 U.S. radio stations and three in Mexico broadcasting the program. It was a hit with a small audience but not successful enough to cover all the production and administrative costs.

Pat liked the program and its objective of informing and educating the English language listener about Mexico. When I could no longer afford to “carry” the show, Pat began giving me the one thousand dollars a month I needed. I did not ask Pat for help and he asked for nothing in return. He did it because it seemed the right thing to do.

While Pat’s right brain keeps on dreaming his left brain is focused on business success and above all on MARKETING. Pat likes to point out: “Where else in the world can you find a spot like San Felipe: 10,000 ft. Mountain ranges adjoining a warm sea with unending miles of white sand beach. Within a 10 hour drive radius of the ranch exists a market population of 35 million people.” It sounds so easy when Pat explains it. That is what makes him such a pro. He talks and acts like “everyman” with his easy, slow manner. But no other developer has been as successful in selling “the baja real estate” to wary gringo buyers. Pat’s marketing genius includes a clear understanding of the U.S. – Canadian buyer’s needs and most important, fears about Mexico .

Many of Pat’s prospective buyers are developed in R.V. and Home Shows where his U.S. sales staff present the Ranch at over 45 shows annually nation. During the course of the show, El Dorado Sales People offer attendees a caravan led trip to El Dorado direct from the show’s location. RV and Home show enthusiasts are a demographic made up of mostly retirees or soon to be retirees. Pat points out that Mexico leads all other nations with 600,000 U.S. ex patriots living in Mexico, most of them retirees.

Understanding the gringos fear of driving a $50,000 – $500,000 vehicle into Mexico , they are provided Mexican auto insurance and a Mexicali police escort crossing the border and through the city. At the Mexicali city limit the caravan is met by the “Green Angels” who provide escort for the continuation of the trip, including a return trip back to the U.S. border at the end of their visit.

The Green Angels are well known by grateful motorists who are veteran Baja travelers. They patrol the highways and byways of Mexico with fully equipped vans to do vehicle repairs for stranded motorists. If they can’t fix the problem, on the spot, they will tow you to the nearest garage. This is a free service to all travelers in Mexico. Butler, a first rate salesman, you can’t discern when he’s selling, convinced the police and Green Angels to offer these special escort privileges as a boost to tourism.

Pat and the Ranch’s good citizenship are appreciated by Baja officials who recognize El Dorado’s community develpment efforts. The economy of San Felipe is enriched by the Ranch bringing 50,000 extra tourists a year to the village. Aside from more tourists, it is estimated that one half of the 7,000 retired U.S. citizens, living in San Felipe, discovered the village via an El Dorado promoted getaway.
These 7,000 U.S. retirees, in a pueblo of 17,000, have made a big difference to the economy.

In developing the ranch into a major subdivision the County of Mexicali and The State of Baja California realized a huge windfall of tax revenue. Taxes, that did not exist until the ranch became formalized with each lot registered under the bank trusts designed for foreign ownership in Mexico.

Always ready to risk losing money to make money Pat hass expanded the tourist caravan concept by refurbishing a DC-3 airplane with service from San Francisco. Risk taking, marketing skills and, most import to Pat’s success, is his commitment to everyone winning in every deal.

Recipients of his win-win way of doing business in San Felipe are the peasant land owners who sold the Ranch to Butler. Each of the 216 families received a generous cash amount and still maintain ownership of more than two thousand acres per family.

San Felipe’s business people are treated with professional respect and marketing assist, in addition to lucrative contracts with El Dorado. Students win from his monetary and internet contributions and Baja’s political leadership win from his commitment and genius in promoting the state.

In addition to Mexicanos winning – U.S. retirees received resources and infrastructure from Pat that enabled them to be more involved in helping their adopted community of San Felipe. Retirees who are contributing to the education of San Felipe’s young people with time and money. Pat states it this way: “I love the integration we have been able to achieve here in San Felipe of the gringo retirement community with the local Mexicanos. This is a platform from which we can greatly contribute to Vicente Fox’s stated objective of providing the skills and resources to improve the future for the poor and disenfranchised of Mexico.”

Yes Pat you succeeded in “Making a Difference”. Thanks pal, for being a dreamer with a talent for success.

Vacation San Felipe or Cabo San Lucas?

I feel incredibly blessed to live and work in Northern Baja. Ironic, because most of my clients are U.S. citizens investing in Baja Sur (South). The Baja Peninsula is divided into two Mexican states-Baja California and Baja California Sur. The most popular areas in “el sur”, includes: Los Cabos, Mulege, Loreto and La Paz. The allure is generally warmer air and water temperatures.

Distance is also a factor. Baja Sur is considered a “destination vacation” while Ensenada and San Felipe are considered border towns. Too close to Southern California and Nevada to be fully appreciated.

Buying retirement or vacation property is very personal, therefore, a most subjective decision. Often, I research and buy property for U.S investors in remote areas of the Southern peninsula that, for me personally, don’t merit the trip once you get there.

My clients, however, are more than happy with their investment location. They love these locales; for a variety of reasons, that evoke passionate dedication. The reasons they most frequently cite are: fishing, sailing, diving, the environment (pristine or not so pristine), the Mexicano friends who have become like extended family, isolation and privacy or the opposite-a social life with other Americans in the area.

For me, Baja California (Norte) is ideal. Ensenada’s abundance of surf breaks satisfies my surfing needs. The beautiful rocky coastline and Todos Santos island, at the entrance to Ensenada Bay, are ideal for kayaking: beautiful vistas, lagoons, sea lions, seals, rooster fish, migrating whales and a huge variety of sea birds.

My mountain bike “jones” and trail running are satisfied by lots of “single track” through canyons and atop mountains that form my backyard. Everyday I climb these trails. Sharing their rugged beauty with roadrunners, quail, rabbits and snakes. Tough, steep canyons provide a healthy workout and a payoff of beautiful ocean vistas upon reaching ridge tops.

The weather in Ensenada is ideal – not too hot and never too cold. Like San Diego: If you don’t like the weather, stick around for 9 months and it might change-a little bit. When it does “turn chilly” it is only a two and one half hour drive to San Felipe and the winter warm temps typical to the Sea of Cortez. For folks on the Sea of Cortez, the summer weather (norte & sur) can become suffocating hot. Mexicali and San Felipe residents escape to Ensenada in the summer.

Last month, I spent two long weekends in San Felipe, including thanksgiving. The air temperatures were in the high 70′s, at times reaching the low 80′s. Water temps were in the 70′s. What a treat to jog down miles of white sand beach and then dip into a relatively warm sea of Cortez for an invigorating swim. A great way to start a warm November day in San Felipe.

I never tire of the drive between Ensenada and San Felipe. The mountain passes, with oak lined canyons are dotted with aspen like trees and sage that turn golden this time of year. The desert, between the two northern seas, is incredibly beautiful. Cactus and sage surround rocky peaks that soar upward from the desert floor to heights of more than 5,000 feet. A constantly changing topography and floral landscape, makes the two and one half hour drive seem much shorter.

Ensenada, a port city of 400,000 folks, has a variety of very good restaurants, night clubs, movie houses, and cultural events. We enjoy and celebrate that we are a city that feels like a village. A culturally diverse port, Ensenada can boast about its fine winemaking, internationally varied cuisine and thriving arts community.

Germans, Russians, Spanish, French, Chinese, Lebanese, English and Japanese Mexicanos make up Ensenada’s melting pot. Names like: Eduardo Smith, Miquel Pavlov, Nico Saad, Jaime Chew and Marcos Fisher are almost as common as the surnames Gonzalez and Perez. Their ancestors came in the early to mid 1900′s to fish, farm or provide a variety of hard goods for the fast growing port.

The most obvious difference to me, between northern Baja and Baja Sur, are land prices. Land purchased, in the less costly areas of Baja Sur, are generally double those in Baja norte. In Los Cabos, land prices are often ten times the price of a comparable property in the north.

I understand why many gringos would prefer the southern half of the peninsula to Ensenada, but why isn’t San Felipe as popular as pueblos to the South? I prefer going to San Felipe as opposed to Cabo San Lucas. San Felipe is less developed and more Mexicano “kick back” -population 20,000. The environment is more pristine in San Felipe, the fishing is great and the water, air temps and miles of white sand beaches are comparable Los Cabos.

San Felipe is a tranquil fishing village with hotel rooms from $25 dollars
with ocean views. Comparable rooms without a view in Cabo San Lucas cost $75 a night. What is up with that? San Felipe, famous for its shrimp, has wonderfully fresh (same day catch) seafood, and nobody is hustling you to buy a time-share.

True, San Felipe does not have an “all night crazy” Cabo Wobble nightclub or high rise hotels blocking the view of lands end. However, it has unencumbered views of the Sea and a panga lined malecon (boardwalk) that invites evening strolls with unobtrusive norteno musicians. Minstrels who are content serenading dolphins if the tourists ain’t supporting their muisical offerings. They just play for themselves and anybody else that wants to listen if the tourists are too few or too cheap.

The beauty of a Northern Baja vacation is that you can have the best of several worlds. A half hour drive from the border lies Rosarito. There you can frolic in a nocturnal Cabo San Lucas type ambiance of debauchery. Drive another hour South of Rosarito and enjoy all that Ensenada has to offer.

Next stop, San Felipe for a hassle free Mexican vacation at its best. The police are not shaking down tourists and realtors stay in their offices awaiting customers. Cabo San Lucas is in your face gringolandia but apparently that’s what most gringos want. A place with sunny beaches, margaritas and a lot of other yahoo gringos yahooing it up.

Cabo San Lucas devotees (including my daughter, who vacations in Cabo annually), please write and explain all this to me cause I am dumbfounded. I am also a little on the frugal side. Having more fun at one third the cost fits my criteria for a great holiday just fine- “tank yo very mucho”.

A 500 year step back in time

Guanajuato, the 15th century, colonial capitol for the State of Guanajuato, is an incredibly magical and romantic city of Mexico. Steeped in art and culture it is an art and music lover’s dream vacation. A culinary feast can be had in Guanajuato at fast food prices. You can fly direct from Tijuana airport and soon flights on TAESA Airlines will be added from Mexicali. The cost, at this printing, is $260 for a round trip ticket. Five star hotels are in the $50.00 a night range and fine restaurants charge “diner” prices. Taxi rates are 50% less tha. As such, qualified for UNESCO restoration funding. Combining these funds, along with Historic Landmark monies from the Mexican government, the city maintains a constant restoration process.

In the interior of Mexico, Guanajuato is a three hour drive from Mexico City. The birthplace of the republic, it has remained exactly the way it was when the Spaniards built it between the 15th and 17th centuries. Neon signs and stop lights are non existent in Guanajuato. Changes to buildings, whether exteriors or interiors, are subject to strict review to assure colonial standards of originality are maintained. Even interior painting and color selection must be approved. Architecturally, the entire city is a masterpiece and her caring and prideful citizens treat it as if they were curators of a museum.

Dedication to Architectural integrity and artistry is matched by a prideful dedication to supporting an international performing and fine arts legacy. The citizens of Guanjuato do a superb job of assuring your stay will be full of beautiful music, dance, theatre and fine art.

In 1995 I wrote about Festival Cervantino in Guanajuato. The world’s premiere performing arts festival that transcends nineteen continuous days each October. It is truly an international event with artists converging on Guanajuato from around the globe. These are “the best” that the representative countries have to offer, a sort of Olympics of the arts.

A sampling of what was presented at this year’s festival:
MUSIC- The American String Quartet from Houston, The Amsterdam Jazz Quintet, The Hungarian Men’s Choir, Symphonies and Opera stars from around the world and the wonderful Latin singing star Tania Libertad-
DANCE- The National Dance Companies, Representing: Mexico, Peru, Switzerland, France, Ireland, Cuba, Russia, Israel and India.
THEATRE- A rich assortment of international plays that represents each nations attempt to showcase their best theatre.

On my recent three night stay, not Festival Cervantino time, just an average Guanajuato week, I spent one night at the opera, the second at the symphony and on my final night attended a touring New York City dance company presentation. On the streets, the 15th century tradition of Rondalla is practiced nightly. Troubadours, dressed in period costumes, lead their audience on a winding promenade through the alleys and back streets of Guanajuato. They stop, between songs, to share the legends that originated in each historic location on this musical and historic journey.

In addition to the performing arts, Guanajuato must have the highest per capita number of art museums and galleries in the world. This year FESTIVAL CERVANTINO had fine artists from: Spain, U.S., Canada, Guatemala, Germany, Mexico and Hungary. Students of both the performing and fine arts always have a smorgasbord of seminars to attend with the same international, eclectic mix of artistic idioms.

Despite Guanajuato’s incredible beauty, architectural majesty, historic significance and cultural attractions, relatively few U.S. tourists visit Guanajuato. I always find an abundance of European and some Asian tourists. Attracted, by having read about Guanajuato, they are lured from across the globe to Gringolandia’s back yard. Why is it that Europeans I meet in Mexico know more about the history of Mexico than most U.S. citizens? I’ll leave that question for another article. . For Mexicanos, a trip to Guanajuato is a pilgrimage that one has made or is planning to make. Mexicanos account for most of Guanajuato’s tourism.

I don’t know about you, but if I’m looking for a good ethnic restaurant I always check out if there are any folks of that race eating in the joint. If you see a lot of Chinese in a Chinese restaurant there is a pretty high probability that the food is good. So it stands to reason that if Mexicanos consider a trip to a Guanajuato a lifelong goal……yeah, you know what I mean.

Only a one and a half hour drive from the city of Guanajuato, the city of Leon is the leather capital of Mexico. If you like leather you will be, like me, in shopper’s paradise. I’m a shop till I drop kind of guy. This past trip I bought 2 sport coats and 2 pair of shoes: one pair from the florsheim supplier, the other Bally. Fine leather , easily costing more than $1,500.00 if purchased in the States. I spent less than $400 on my leather splurge in Leon. My savings on leather paid the costs of the entire 8 day vacation. Don’t you love justifying excess spending?

Down the road from the city of Guanajuato is San Miguel de Allende and there you will find many Americanos: Tourists, Retirees, Working U.S. Citizens, Students and Artists.

When I asked tourists I met in San Miguel if they knew about the splendors of nearby Guanajuato, an overwhelming majority said they had no idea such a wonderful place existed. “Can you beat that, and so close to my favorite place to visit.” In many cases, folks who return to San Miguel each year, and having done so for decades, ignore the rest of the state’s beauty and history. It is a curious thing, returning tourists say they go to San Miguel because it is quaint and kick back. I believe the Gringo tourist goes there to be with other Americans. We are so ethnocentric and clannish, are we not?

I want to repeat that Guanajuato is an inexpensive, great vacation state, with wonderfully hospitable people. Tourists are truly valued and cared for in Guanajuato. I want to particularly recommend the Nueva Estancia Hotel in Leon, just across the street from the Fiesta Americana. The Nueva Estancia has comparable rooms and service to the Americana but at a considerable savings. I had a suite priced at $50.00. The Fiesta Americana has tennis courts and a Spa and the Estancia does not. However, those privileges are extended to Estancia guests. The Spa at the Americana is a great bargain: pedicure, manicure, massage, facial and steam – $25.00.

Also in Leon I can heartily recommend El Rincon del Gaucho, a wonderful Argentine restaurant whose owner obviously loves making guests feel at home and assuring that the quality of food and service is the best it can be, and it is. The restaurant is a short walk from the Estancia Hotel. The chorizo is wonderful throughout the interior of Mexico, Baja California chorizo pales by comparison, and this restaurant maintains a high quality chorizo standard.

In San Miguel de Allende, El Pegaso is a fine gourmet restaurant. It is the favorite among the upscale international sophisticates who live in San Miquel full or part time. A very unique (for Mexico) menu: continental, California Cuisine is the closest description. El Pegaso competes with fine restaurants you might find in Berkeley or Los Angeles. The cakes and pies, made in house with the freshest ingredients- like all the restaurant’s offerings- are a pastry lover’s fantasy.

The owners: Robin (from Palo Alto) and Gilberto (from Puerto Vallarta) – the Diaz family, are second generation owners of El Pegaso and former owners of El Pegaso 2 in Ensenada. The Ensenada store was not a restaurant, rather a shop that sold Mexican art and artesania. They made many friends while in Ensenada.

The border region ain’t Mexico and AMEN TO THAT!

When people in the provinces of this country, Baja California is especially provincial, say they are going to Mexico they mean the interior of the country. Going to Mexico means the center of the country’s power and it’s surrounding states: Guanajuato, Morelos, Puebla, and Jalisco.

As a Califoniano, Oakland and Ensenada, I ask myself why anyone would want to travel to Mexico City? You don’t know whether your cab driver is a real cabbie or a violent thief who will rob and possibly hurt or kill you. The air is unbreathable and the traffic unbearable.

A client of mine is a Daimler Benz owned Mexican company called Temic. My work with them requires me to fly to Mexico City once a month. Luckily, it is not necessary for me to use cabs. My client provides a chauffeur who receives me on each visit and returns me to the airport on departure.

My work takes me to their plant, located an hour and one half from the Mexico City Airport, in the state of Morelos. The plant is located in a beautiful agricultural area in the municipality of Cuautla; a half hour south of Cuernavaca.

The state of Morelos, finds itself in a political mess as I write this. The governor just resigned and there is still talk of indicting him for corruption and other criminal activities. The last straw for Morelos citizenry was the discovery that the “elite” kidnapping investigating unit (hand picked by the gov) was responsible for a number of kidnappings. Morelos leads the nation in kidnappings with a yearly averago of 360.. The cop/kidnappers were caught disposing the body of one of their kidnapping victims in Morelos.

I visited Cuernavaca , the capital of Morelos, for the first time in 1977 and it was a beautiful pueblo with jungle like hillsides: full of flowers, butterflies and the scent of lush flora. Today it is a grimy city with traffic problems caused by too many cars on narrow cobble stoned streets. Streets not designed for the magnitudes that fill this pueblo turned city.

Please don’t get me wrong I like going to Morelos, but I’m so glad I live in Ensenada. One very important reason I like going to Morelos is the chorizo. The crap that we call chorizo here in Baja Califonia and most of California is not what I grew up on. In Morelos my grandmother’s chorizo and morsilla (blood sausage) is in abundant supply. Chorizo, by my criteria, should not fall apart when you fry it up. True chorizo remains an in tact sausage that you cut with a knife and fork; seeing and smelling those fine, spicy juices explode as you cut into that plump motha. DAMN! Makes me hungry thinkin about it.

Morelos is culturally more traditional Mexico when compared to Baja California. Food preparation in Baja California, for example, is not high quality Mexican Cuisine. In the state of Morelos, Mexican cooking is an art form. The variety of dishes and sauces is vast, exotic and prepared with exceptional pride and caring. Holidays, fiestas and religious practices are more tradition bound and integrated into community life in “Mexico” as opposed to Baja California. Morelos is an interesting change for me from Baja California so I do enjoy my visits. A great place to visit but.

The political and social climate in the state of Morelos is also quite distinct when compared to Baja California. In Morelos, for example, the unions are very strong and often create major problems for large employers. In Baja California the unions are a joke, neither employees nor employers pay much attention to them. Most maquiladoras (foreign owned assembly operations) are non union shops in Baja California. Tijuana leads the nation in the number of maquiladoras; twelve hundred of the nations 2,000 maquiladoras are in TJ.

Union bosses, close proximity to Mexico City style corruption and a traditional acceptance of a government that does not represent the people’s interests has created modern day Cuernava. Once the Mecca for Mexico’s great artists it is now a bustling, “dog eat dog” city, bursting at the seams and hell bent on repeating the awful disaster that is Mexico City.

Cuernavaca and the rest of Morelos is still a popular weekend getaway for stressed out Chilangos (Mexico City residents). Only an hour away , via a very modern toll road, Cuernava is at least a little slower and less crowded than the Distrito Federal.

Lots of tradition and great food has Morelos. No surf, sand, desert, wide open spaces, clean air or that layed back Baja California feeling. Baja California must also be lauded for a state government that works hard to protect the interests and rights of its citizens. Where abuse of authority is the exception rather than the rule. Gracias a Dios, I do live in paradise.

Mexican border towns are more similar to U.S. border towns than they are to Chiapas on the Guatemala Border

For as long as I have lived in Mexico I have been hell bent on understanding this country that remains to me, an “enigma wrapped in a mystery”. Moving to Baja California was a first step at understanding and assimilating into Mexico. Close to the border, Baja California has adopted much of Southern California’s culture. A frontier culture that mixes: language, styles of dress, music and a perspective that is influenced by both Mexican and U.S. values. Although influenced by cross border experiences, “Fronteriza” is a distinct culture, neither Mexican nor American. This synergy of influences is producing new and unique music, theatre, literature and art. I enjoy and can relate to this Fronteriza culture having been raised in a hybrid Hispanic, Philippine and Afro American neighborhood in Oakland California.

Baja California is culturally easy for U.S. folks, especially Southern Californians whose parents brought them here as children to fish, surf in baja or just enjoy the “kick back” Baja, beach oriented lifestyle. However, to experience traditional Mexico and its cultural diversity you must travel the interior of the country. To really appreciate the mystery of Mexico, her spiritual magic and her three thousand year history, travel to Chiapas. It is on Mexico’s Southeast coast at the center of the region called Mundo Maya (Mayan World) which includes the surrounding Mexican states of Tabasco, Oaxaca, Quintana Roo, Campeche and Yucatan. Mundo Maya also includes the surrounding nations of: Guatemala, Honduras, Belize and El Salvador.

Chiapas is the most distant Mexican state from Baja California, located at the border between Mexico and Guatemala. As an American you owe it to yourself to make the pilgrimage. I say pilgrimage because it is the cradle of our continent’s civilization and home to Northamerica’s last remaining rain forest, whose preservation is vital to the health of our Continent.

Baja California is one of the last places on earth where Abalone still survive off her Pacific Coast. The Sea of Cortez is the only inland sea that is surrounded by the territory of a single nation. It is home to a multitude of endangered sea life including the protected 300 pound Totuaba, considered by game fisherman to be the most precious and exciting of catches. Baja’s beauty is made up of mostly pristine: desert, mountains and beaches. Similarly, Chiapas is mostly pristine wilderness. It is home to 26 endangered species of animals. Her Mexican jungles and rain forest are populated by: Jaguar, Puma, Crocodile, Armadillo, Tucan, Parrot, Monkey, Wild Boar and White Tail Deer, to name just a few. Chiapas has the largest concentration of animal species in the world. A visit to the Tuxla (capital city) Zoo and Game Preserve is an incredible journey into a small slice of an exquisite Northamerican wilderness that contains 65% of Mexico’s birds, and 1200 species of butterflies. This preserve is an important legacy to all the citizens of this continent.

The Mexican government has invested heavily in museums and parks in Chiapas in order to maintain and beautifully present the well preserved Olmec and Mayan heritage. An American heritage that most U.S. citizens know little about. History courses in U.S. public schools reflect a Euro focus that I believe warps our self identity as Americans. Our education is replete with information on Greek and Roman civilizations that existed half way round the world. Yet hardly a mention is made in our nation’s schools about Canadian or Mexican ancestral history. What’s up with this? These countries are our Northamerican neighbors. We share, and are mutually responsible for, this piece of the planet.

I interviewed a U.S. archeologist who was in the Chiapas region on an expedition focused on the Olmec civilization, predecessors of the Mayans. The Florida State University archeologist explained to me that she completed a course on ancient Northamerican cultures in preparation for her work in Mayan country. She recounted to me the erroneous and ridiculous words of her U.S. trained professor that now obsessively echos in her mind: “The Olmecs were not so much a civilazation but more an artistic lifestyle”. This ignorance was espoused by a graduate studies professor about an incredibly advanced society that knew, before anyone else in recorded history, that the world was round and revolved around the sun.

The Olmecs and the Mayans had written languages. They were: astronomers, physicians, engineers, artists and architects who built elaborate cities. The graduate professor’s historically bankrupt conclusions are a sad commentary of how poorly our education system has failed us regarding American continental history. A trip to Palenque, Chiapas is mind blowing: ruins thousands of years old are remarkably preserved, including the plaster artwork that adorn the walls of 66 foot high pyramids and huge buildings that are spread out over miles of jungle and clearings. A hike through Palenque’s ruins is a combination ecological, archaelogical, ethnological and historic passage unlike any travel adventure I have experienced. One is transported back thousands of years in this pristine and uncompromised jungle. The abundance of flora is amazing with 1,000 species of plants identified in one square mile. Animals and humans are still living where time and progress have made little or no impact. Even Palenque’s ancient underground aqueducts still function today.

Both Baja Californa and Chiapas have indigenous populations in Mexico. The difference is that Baja California’s five tribes are almost extinct with only 1200 survivors. They are generally not visible to visitors, living in remote locations away from the major cities and tourist zones. Chiapas, by comparison, has 750,000 indigenous inhabitants, one third of the state’s total population, and they are visible everywhere you travel. The impressivly high quality museums of Chiapas beautifully display artifacts that depict the lifestyles of these ancient people: style of dress, language, superb art, agricultural methods, and ceremonial traditions.

Once outside the museums, on the streets of the pueblos and in the surrounding jungle, you see the same facial features in the descendants of the Mayan and Olmec cultures. They still speak and read Mayan dialects, wear the same traditional clothing, create the same wonderful art and handcrafts and practice the same farming science of their ancestors . The whole state of Chiapas is a living, breathing museum of ancient cultures.

Ceremonial and religious customs are still very Mayan but mixed with Catholicism. The Chamula tribe, for example , allows only the Catholic sacrament of Baptism. From then on the priests and bishops are not allowed, not even to perform mass. The Chamula religious and ceremonial traditions are very Mayan with just a hint of Catholicism. To visit their church, any time of the day – everyday, is as exotic an experience as witnessing a voodoo ceremony.

Chiapas is an incredibly beautiful region: huge waterfalls, raging rivers, heavily forested mountains, pristine beaches, 15th century colonial towns, modern cities, living ethnology, handcrafts, heritage, art, music, dance, folklore, wonderful and exotic foods and beverages, animal and plant life and some of the worlds most important museums and archaeological sites. The economics of visiting there is another big plus with five star hotels at $50.00 and delicious regional dishes in the $5.00 range. Despite all of these extraordinary travel assets Northamerican tourists are profoundly scarce. This I find true in most of my travels through the colonial cities and remote regions of Mexico. Ironically, French, English and German travelers, armed with history books, are everywhere in Chiapas and the other “unknown to Gringos” locations in Mexico. Ninety percent of all U.S. tourists to Mexico visit: Cancun, Los Cabos and Puerto Vallarta where it is so Americanized they learn and experience almost nothing of what is truly Mexico.

As fellow custodians of this continent, all Americans owe it to themselves to visit Chiapas. To experience our last remaining rain forest, 15th century colonial towns that rival Europe, and the ancient civilzations of our forebearers. Despite political turmoil, that fills the world news, travelers are safer than they would be visiting a major U.S. city. At the risk of sounding overly dramatic I believe I am a changed person for having visited Chiapas – I have a clearer historical perspective, a renewed sense of environmental responsibility and a deeper appreciation of what it is to be an American.