From Baja California to Guanajuato

A 500 year step back in time

Guanajuato, the 15th century, colonial capitol for the State of Guanajuato, is an incredibly magical and romantic city of Mexico. Steeped in art and culture it is an art and music lover's dream vacation. A culinary feast can be had in Guanajuato at fast food prices. You can fly direct from Tijuana airport and soon flights on TAESA Airlines will be added from Mexicali. The cost, at this printing, is $260 for a round trip ticket. Five star hotels are in the $50.00 a night range and fine restaurants charge "diner" prices. Taxi rates are 50% less tha. As such, qualified for UNESCO restoration funding. Combining these funds, along with Historic Landmark monies from the Mexican government, the city maintains a constant restoration process.

In the interior of Mexico, Guanajuato is a three hour drive from Mexico City. The birthplace of the republic, it has remained exactly the way it was when the Spaniards built it between the 15th and 17th centuries. Neon signs and stop lights are non existent in Guanajuato. Changes to buildings, whether exteriors or interiors, are subject to strict review to assure colonial standards of originality are maintained. Even interior painting and color selection must be approved. Architecturally, the entire city is a masterpiece and her caring and prideful citizens treat it as if they were curators of a museum.

Dedication to Architectural integrity and artistry is matched by a prideful dedication to supporting an international performing and fine arts legacy. The citizens of Guanjuato do a superb job of assuring your stay will be full of beautiful music, dance, theatre and fine art.

In 1995 I wrote about Festival Cervantino in Guanajuato. The world's premiere performing arts festival that transcends nineteen continuous days each October. It is truly an international event with artists converging on Guanajuato from around the globe. These are "the best" that the representative countries have to offer, a sort of Olympics of the arts.

A sampling of what was presented at this year's festival:
MUSIC- The American String Quartet from Houston, The Amsterdam Jazz Quintet, The Hungarian Men's Choir, Symphonies and Opera stars from around the world and the wonderful Latin singing star Tania Libertad-
DANCE- The National Dance Companies, Representing: Mexico, Peru, Switzerland, France, Ireland, Cuba, Russia, Israel and India.
THEATRE- A rich assortment of international plays that represents each nations attempt to showcase their best theatre.

On my recent three night stay, not Festival Cervantino time, just an average Guanajuato week, I spent one night at the opera, the second at the symphony and on my final night attended a touring New York City dance company presentation. On the streets, the 15th century tradition of Rondalla is practiced nightly. Troubadours, dressed in period costumes, lead their audience on a winding promenade through the alleys and back streets of Guanajuato. They stop, between songs, to share the legends that originated in each historic location on this musical and historic journey.

In addition to the performing arts, Guanajuato must have the highest per capita number of art museums and galleries in the world. This year FESTIVAL CERVANTINO had fine artists from: Spain, U.S., Canada, Guatemala, Germany, Mexico and Hungary. Students of both the performing and fine arts always have a smorgasbord of seminars to attend with the same international, eclectic mix of artistic idioms.

Despite Guanajuato's incredible beauty, architectural majesty, historic significance and cultural attractions, relatively few U.S. tourists visit Guanajuato. I always find an abundance of European and some Asian tourists. Attracted, by having read about Guanajuato, they are lured from across the globe to Gringolandia's back yard. Why is it that Europeans I meet in Mexico know more about the history of Mexico than most U.S. citizens? I'll leave that question for another article. . For Mexicanos, a trip to Guanajuato is a pilgrimage that one has made or is planning to make. Mexicanos account for most of Guanajuato's tourism.

I don't know about you, but if I'm looking for a good ethnic restaurant I always check out if there are any folks of that race eating in the joint. If you see a lot of Chinese in a Chinese restaurant there is a pretty high probability that the food is good. So it stands to reason that if Mexicanos consider a trip to a Guanajuato a lifelong goal……yeah, you know what I mean.

Only a one and a half hour drive from the city of Guanajuato, the city of Leon is the leather capital of Mexico. If you like leather you will be, like me, in shopper's paradise. I'm a shop till I drop kind of guy. This past trip I bought 2 sport coats and 2 pair of shoes: one pair from the florsheim supplier, the other Bally. Fine leather , easily costing more than $1,500.00 if purchased in the States. I spent less than $400 on my leather splurge in Leon. My savings on leather paid the costs of the entire 8 day vacation. Don't you love justifying excess spending?

Down the road from the city of Guanajuato is San Miguel de Allende and there you will find many Americanos: Tourists, Retirees, Working U.S. Citizens, Students and Artists.

When I asked tourists I met in San Miguel if they knew about the splendors of nearby Guanajuato, an overwhelming majority said they had no idea such a wonderful place existed. "Can you beat that, and so close to my favorite place to visit." In many cases, folks who return to San Miguel each year, and having done so for decades, ignore the rest of the state's beauty and history. It is a curious thing, returning tourists say they go to San Miguel because it is quaint and kick back. I believe the Gringo tourist goes there to be with other Americans. We are so ethnocentric and clannish, are we not?

I want to repeat that Guanajuato is an inexpensive, great vacation state, with wonderfully hospitable people. Tourists are truly valued and cared for in Guanajuato. I want to particularly recommend the Nueva Estancia Hotel in Leon, just across the street from the Fiesta Americana. The Nueva Estancia has comparable rooms and service to the Americana but at a considerable savings. I had a suite priced at $50.00. The Fiesta Americana has tennis courts and a Spa and the Estancia does not. However, those privileges are extended to Estancia guests. The Spa at the Americana is a great bargain: pedicure, manicure, massage, facial and steam - $25.00.

Also in Leon I can heartily recommend El Rincon del Gaucho, a wonderful Argentine restaurant whose owner obviously loves making guests feel at home and assuring that the quality of food and service is the best it can be, and it is. The restaurant is a short walk from the Estancia Hotel. The chorizo is wonderful throughout the interior of Mexico, Baja California chorizo pales by comparison, and this restaurant maintains a high quality chorizo standard.

In San Miguel de Allende, El Pegaso is a fine gourmet restaurant. It is the favorite among the upscale international sophisticates who live in San Miquel full or part time. A very unique (for Mexico) menu: continental, California Cuisine is the closest description. El Pegaso competes with fine restaurants you might find in Berkeley or Los Angeles. The cakes and pies, made in house with the freshest ingredients- like all the restaurant's offerings- are a pastry lover's fantasy.

The owners: Robin (from Palo Alto) and Gilberto (from Puerto Vallarta) - the Diaz family, are second generation owners of El Pegaso and former owners of El Pegaso 2 in Ensenada. The Ensenada store was not a restaurant, rather a shop that sold Mexican art and artesania. They made many friends while in Ensenada.