Baja California versus Baja California Sur

Vacation San Felipe or Cabo San Lucas?

I feel incredibly blessed to live and work in Northern Baja. Ironic, because most of my clients are U.S. citizens investing in Baja Sur (South). The Baja Peninsula is divided into two Mexican states-Baja California and Baja California Sur. The most popular areas in "el sur", includes: Los Cabos, Mulege, Loreto and La Paz. The allure is generally warmer air and water temperatures.

Distance is also a factor. Baja Sur is considered a "destination vacation" while Ensenada and San Felipe are considered border towns. Too close to Southern California and Nevada to be fully appreciated.

Buying retirement or vacation property is very personal, therefore, a most subjective decision. Often, I research and buy property for U.S investors in remote areas of the Southern peninsula that, for me personally, don't merit the trip once you get there.

My clients, however, are more than happy with their investment location. They love these locales; for a variety of reasons, that evoke passionate dedication. The reasons they most frequently cite are: fishing, sailing, diving, the environment (pristine or not so pristine), the Mexicano friends who have become like extended family, isolation and privacy or the opposite-a social life with other Americans in the area.

For me, Baja California (Norte) is ideal. Ensenada's abundance of surf breaks satisfies my surfing needs. The beautiful rocky coastline and Todos Santos island, at the entrance to Ensenada Bay, are ideal for kayaking: beautiful vistas, lagoons, sea lions, seals, rooster fish, migrating whales and a huge variety of sea birds.

My mountain bike "jones" and trail running are satisfied by lots of "single track" through canyons and atop mountains that form my backyard. Everyday I climb these trails. Sharing their rugged beauty with roadrunners, quail, rabbits and snakes. Tough, steep canyons provide a healthy workout and a payoff of beautiful ocean vistas upon reaching ridge tops.

The weather in Ensenada is ideal - not too hot and never too cold. Like San Diego: If you don't like the weather, stick around for 9 months and it might change-a little bit. When it does "turn chilly" it is only a two and one half hour drive to San Felipe and the winter warm temps typical to the Sea of Cortez. For folks on the Sea of Cortez, the summer weather (norte & sur) can become suffocating hot. Mexicali and San Felipe residents escape to Ensenada in the summer.

Last month, I spent two long weekends in San Felipe, including thanksgiving. The air temperatures were in the high 70's, at times reaching the low 80's. Water temps were in the 70's. What a treat to jog down miles of white sand beach and then dip into a relatively warm sea of Cortez for an invigorating swim. A great way to start a warm November day in San Felipe.

I never tire of the drive between Ensenada and San Felipe. The mountain passes, with oak lined canyons are dotted with aspen like trees and sage that turn golden this time of year. The desert, between the two northern seas, is incredibly beautiful. Cactus and sage surround rocky peaks that soar upward from the desert floor to heights of more than 5,000 feet. A constantly changing topography and floral landscape, makes the two and one half hour drive seem much shorter.

Ensenada, a port city of 400,000 folks, has a variety of very good restaurants, night clubs, movie houses, and cultural events. We enjoy and celebrate that we are a city that feels like a village. A culturally diverse port, Ensenada can boast about its fine winemaking, internationally varied cuisine and thriving arts community.

Germans, Russians, Spanish, French, Chinese, Lebanese, English and Japanese Mexicanos make up Ensenada's melting pot. Names like: Eduardo Smith, Miquel Pavlov, Nico Saad, Jaime Chew and Marcos Fisher are almost as common as the surnames Gonzalez and Perez. Their ancestors came in the early to mid 1900's to fish, farm or provide a variety of hard goods for the fast growing port.

The most obvious difference to me, between northern Baja and Baja Sur, are land prices. Land purchased, in the less costly areas of Baja Sur, are generally double those in Baja norte. In Los Cabos, land prices are often ten times the price of a comparable property in the north.

I understand why many gringos would prefer the southern half of the peninsula to Ensenada, but why isn't San Felipe as popular as pueblos to the South? I prefer going to San Felipe as opposed to Cabo San Lucas. San Felipe is less developed and more Mexicano "kick back" -population 20,000. The environment is more pristine in San Felipe, the fishing is great and the water, air temps and miles of white sand beaches are comparable Los Cabos.

San Felipe is a tranquil fishing village with hotel rooms from $25 dollars
with ocean views. Comparable rooms without a view in Cabo San Lucas cost $75 a night. What is up with that? San Felipe, famous for its shrimp, has wonderfully fresh (same day catch) seafood, and nobody is hustling you to buy a time-share.

True, San Felipe does not have an "all night crazy" Cabo Wobble nightclub or high rise hotels blocking the view of lands end. However, it has unencumbered views of the Sea and a panga lined malecon (boardwalk) that invites evening strolls with unobtrusive norteno musicians. Minstrels who are content serenading dolphins if the tourists ain't supporting their muisical offerings. They just play for themselves and anybody else that wants to listen if the tourists are too few or too cheap.

The beauty of a Northern Baja vacation is that you can have the best of several worlds. A half hour drive from the border lies Rosarito. There you can frolic in a nocturnal Cabo San Lucas type ambiance of debauchery. Drive another hour South of Rosarito and enjoy all that Ensenada has to offer.

Next stop, San Felipe for a hassle free Mexican vacation at its best. The police are not shaking down tourists and realtors stay in their offices awaiting customers. Cabo San Lucas is in your face gringolandia but apparently that's what most gringos want. A place with sunny beaches, margaritas and a lot of other yahoo gringos yahooing it up.

Cabo San Lucas devotees (including my daughter, who vacations in Cabo annually), please write and explain all this to me cause I am dumbfounded. I am also a little on the frugal side. Having more fun at one third the cost fits my criteria for a great holiday just fine- "tank yo very mucho".